Recently my 240 feels like one of the front tires is flat as it is hard to turn the wheel at some positions. Could this be a ball-joint or something?
Thanks.

I have this problem on my 240.
It is intermittent, and caused by the steering fluid being aerated. The two hard lines accross the front of my power steering rack are all corroded and seep like crazy, and the result is that the fluid in the resevoir looks like milk (or is extremely low). Check those lines, and that your fluid in topped up. To clear up the problem, if only temporarily, turn the wheel all the way left then right(without hitting full lock) and this clears out any air in the system.

Does anyone know if I can get those two hard lines from a dealership?.

MAtt

If the steering is hard in all directions and positions, try flushing and replacing the power steering fluid. That cured the problem on my 1991 240

Brian Mee

I'd have to lean towards jwalkers diagnosis, the steering column U-Joints are your likely culprit. Sounds awfully familiar to me. Those guys are hard to get at, but once you get a bit of oil to them you will likely find that your problem will disappear in a hurry.

you need to get under there and check it out. Alos a broken spring or a seized top bearing on the mac strut could cause this.
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Patrick, '68 220, '83 245, '92 Eurovan (work truck).

First I would check the fluid level then the belt for tightness. Does it happen during suspension compression on either/both sides. Then it would be a binding suspension component such as a ball joint or tie rod end or strut tower bushing. If it happens when the rpm's are low then the belt is loose or the power steering pump is defective. If it happens at any given time then it may be a tie rod but most likely is the steering rack. Jack up the front of the car off the ground and use a prybar between the ball joints and tie rod ends to check for play. I usually replace all of the ball joints and tie rod ends at the same time if they appear to be worn.

Thanks for all of everybody's help.
You said that you replace all of the tie rod ends at the same time. I have only done the outer ends and not just the inner ends. How hard is it to do the inner ends? Do you have to get a new boot for each side? I have replaced a whole steering rack which included the inner ends but I am hoping to not have to replace the rack on this car!
Also the syptom happens while the car is parked and while driving without much differance as to either. If I jack up the car and inspect the T'ends and the Ball joints, will it be obvious if they have failed or do I need a micrometer or something?
Thanks for everybodys help. The car has almost 300,000 miles and it seems like I am having to do a lot of replacing of parts at this time; last of which was the transsmission.

You can diagnose balljoint/tie rod end problems by jacking up a wheel and seeing if it feels loose.

Grab the wheel by the 12o'clock and 6o'clock position and see if there is any play - if so - ball joint.

Grab the wheel by the 9o'clock and 3o'clock position and see if there is any play - if so - tie rods. If you've already done the outer tierods - then this might be indicative of one or both of the inner tie rods needing replacement. I've never done the job - but I'm told it a bit of a bear compared to the tie rod ends.

Good luck,
Zach

There isn't a grinding or whining sound when turning the wheel, is there? If so - check PS fluid level. Otherwise - could be tie rod or... somebody help me here.

Zach

Maybe a seized steering column u-joint? Check lower one as it usually goes before the upper. Have someone turn steering wheel back and forth as you lubricate the joint to try and free it up.

Also check out all tie rods and steering rack. Doesn't sound like a ball joint...


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90 244DL 255K - original engine/drivetrain :)