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Rear bushings 200 1980

Since the car now has 312000 miles on it and seeing as the bushings are origional I've decided to do finally replace them. Actually I decided to do them about five years ago but you can't rush into these things! You get used to the clunking. Tell me if I'm wrong on the following items?

I'm going poly because they are a better bushing. They also don't need the "tool". The two haves are put in from each side on all the bushings. The best way to get the TAB out is to sawsall the interior sleeve and then air chisel the rest out. It might be easier to take the rear trailing arms out completely.
--
Simon 80 240 312k 18 years. 'White Lightning'








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Rear bushings 200 1980

I have a full set of ipd poly bushings (part installed, part still in the box) and the only ones with two halves are the front control-arm bushings. All the others are single piece with an inner sleeve that presses in after the bushing is in place. Don't know about other brands.

Better? That's a matter of opinion. So far I've installed the front sway bar, both torque rods, and the panhard rod and I like them better when I'm behind the wheel. But is that the poly or because I needed new bushings anyway? The main reason I went with poly is that I want this to be the last set of bushings I do on my '92. Another nice thing about poly is that it will press in with a bench vise. As far as I know, you still need the "tool" to install the rear trailing arm bushings because they're attached to the axle. The "tool" might make things a little easier than wiggling under the car with a bench vise, but people here on the board are creative :)

And, if you have the "tool" you don't need a sawzall and chisel to remove the rear TABs.

Removing the trailing arms, and the control arms and torque rods, etc. is pretty much a requirement for changing bushings.

FWIW, I did the sway bar, torque rods, and panhard rod at home with basic hand tools and a bench vise and not a lot of trouble. But, I will pay a mechanic to do the rest because I need to devote my time to other things and I need a car that's on the road and not on jackstands. If you have time to kill and enjoy the challenge of learning a new skill, by all means, change your own bushings, but have a good backup plan. If not, consider buying the poly and taking everything to a good shop. A car that's given you 18 years deserves a treat.

Good luck.
--
Jim - '92 Red 245 193K, and sometimes an '85 245 275K+








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Rear bushings 200 1980

Thanks Jim

I thought that the Poly TAB was pressed into the metal sleeve the origional bushing was housed in and that you just get rid of the old rubber material inside the sleeve.
--
Simon 80 240 312k 18 years. 'White Lightning'








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Rear bushings 200 1980

I just checked the FCP website and indeed it does say, "must re-use original shell" for the poly. Although it appears that the standard rubber comes pre-assembled.

Then I looked at IPD's site and the picture they have of the poly rear TAB is of two halves. I stand corrected there.

I ordered the complete set from IPD and the rear TABs came pre-assembled. Very convenient.

Still, I'll stand by the rest of my post. Start easy, sway-bar and torque rods, and finish one piece at a time.

Isn't there an old car song called "One piece at a time"?

--
Jim - '92 Red 245 193K, and sometimes an '85 245 275K+







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