Spent some time with a pro volvo mechanic last week working in his shop. I was rebuilding the front end of a MG and asked him where the tie rod splitter was. He said he didn't use one, then came over and with a hammer, wacked hard on the the yoke where the tapered shaft of the tierod was held. The shaft popped right out. took 2 secs to do. He used a 5-7 lb brass mallet. It was pretty impressive, no thread or boot damage, and very fast. I warched him do this to some very rusty ball joints on 240 etc worked every time. I think it's one of those energy transfer situations where the momentum of the hammer distorts the yoke for an instant allowing the shaft out as a further dispersal of the energy. The shaft literally pops out, even if weighted and pressing from above. A little too late for me as now I have 2 different pullers for all my ball joint needs, but still this is faster and won't damage the boot.
--
Patrick, '68 220, '83 245, '92 Eurovan (work truck).

Please, please can you describe this a little better for me! I am going to start the front end of my car tomorrow and this will save me from borrowing for free the puller I always get from autozone to do this job!
You are not hitting any part of the balljoint, but rather the tunnel(yoke) that the bolt of the ball-joint passes through?
I would love to learn this trick but do not want to damage anything. Do you think a regular short handled sledge would work for this trick?

Thanks for posting this... It will save me a lot of time in the future.
Kyle

we were using a small brass headed sledge. The fact that is brass pretty much guarantees that you won't damage anything. you could probably use a steel sledge, but personally I am more comfortable wacking hard with the brass. good luck with that.
--
Patrick, '68 220, '83 245, '92 Eurovan (work truck).

I have done this uncountable times. it seems to work the best swinging BOTH hammers, although unless the hammers are identical, it's hard to get them to strike simultaneously. When you do pull it off, you hardly have to swing. I use a 3LB hammer, often the one with the 5" handle so I have room to swing in confined space.

It also helps to preload the part. I often use a 2x4, or vice grip a pry bar to the control arm or tie rod I'm working on.

Brass...yes it will mushroom which is dangerous from teh flying chips standpoint, so file/grind it down so het working edge has a small bevel. it will be all gone eventualy, but that is the life of a tool. The reason ther isn't a steel collar is one of the benefits of brass is it won't spark...critical in some environments.

Basically you "shock" the female joint component and break any tension between the parts.

I generally use TWO "hammers" to make as sure as I can that I do not damage shock-sensative somponents.

One (larger) hammer (or other massive object that is easy to hold) is held tightly against the steering arm (for removal of a tie rod end for example), and another similarly sized but generally the smaller of the two hammers is used to strike the joint 180* (opposite) of the stationary one with a RAPID and hard swing.

Looking downward you would place one at say 3 o'clock and swing at 9 o'clock (front being noon). Generally, the joint will pop right apart.

No, woodworking hammers are generally NOT massive enough. 32oz would be the SMALLEST that I would try for either.
--
JohnG 1989 245 MT @ 235,000

Several of us have been using & advocating this method for ages... as much as it seems like a caveman method of tackling a repair it works every time. It's my experience that the people who shun this approach are often the same ones who pooh-pooh the 'rope trick' for locking an engine in place... another brilliantly simple, safe, effective trick that circumvents the need to purchase unnecessary tools. I guess they're the ones who already bought the tools.
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina

I learned that one from my 445 shop manual.
It helps to back up the yoke with an even bigger hammer or dolly block.

Brass works best since it has less tendency to waste applied energy by rebounding, since it is softer. Glancing blows also waste energy; you'll know by feel when you hit it flat. Remember that energy and mass are equivalent, according to Einstein, so don't waste 32oz of available mass. Another good use for the "Einstein's Mallet" is to tighten or loosen bolts or nuts: place box end wrench on bolt or nut head and apply pressure to the wrench in desired direction. WHILE MAINTAINING hand pressure on wrench (preloading), smartly "bop" the end of wrench in same direction. This is effective for large front wheel drive nuts also, but the key is to make sure the wrench maintains a preload on the assembly--in this case preload wrench with heavy load AND with full weight of car on the axle. Also good way to tighten or loosen oil drain bolt...a slight "bop" on end of preloaded box wrench does the trick.
Only drawback for the brass mallet is over the years it mushrooms more and more. I'd like to see a toolmaker install a tight steel sleeve around the business end to stop or slow the mushrooming.