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1990 240DL for sale - suburb of Boston, Massachusetts 200

Hey everyone;

I'm selling my 1990 240DL with 116,629 miles on it. Still runs, passed last emissions inspection 2 years ago. No "major" problems - however there is a LONG list of less-critical matters that need attention - some relatively soon. All fluids/filters changed at regular intervals, Mobil 1 10W-30 used since 50,000 miles.

Excellent parts car or restoration project. Asking $300 but are willing to negociate.

If anyone is interested please email me at detroitdiesel149@comcast.net . I can send you the complete list of things that need to be fixed as well as pictures of the exterior and interior.

I'd hate to scrap her... maybe one of you guys can still find some use for this 240.

Thanks,

12AX7








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How bad can it be, at only 116K, to scrap her? 200

It must be pretty bad if your asking $300, or you'll scrap her, at only 116K for a '90. What, specifically, is on this "LONG list of ... matters that need attention ... soon."? If I saw a decent '90 with only 116K miles, I'd normally jump at it for a price that are many multiples of $300 -- but I guess the key word here, that I used, is "decent" -- e.g., in the past couple of years, I've bought two '93's with higher mileages (~130K mi.) each for my wife and for my daughter, and they're great. Considering they're all over a decade old (the cars, not my wife :-), how much difference [regarding condition, not options] should there be between a '90 and a '93?).

Anyway, I've started looking for a "decent" [there's that word again] replacement for my own current car, an '84 -- is your car not a good candidate?

Perhaps you can offer that list, to let folks decide for themselves?








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How bad can it be, at only 116K, to scrap her? 200

Itemized list of issues “needing to be fixed”

- Center console (radio housing) completely gone due to vandalism (prybar attempts to force radio)
- Headlight rotary switchplate missing
- Instrument cluster case housing chipped
- Front driver and passenger kneepads missing
- Hood release broken – attached “jury-rigged” handle
- Hood catch mechanism troublesome – requres some technique to shut the hood properly
- Driver’s exterior door key slot inoperable (locksmith attempting to remove a broken key damaged mechanical components)
- Power locks inoperable
- Blower motor showing signs of “dying”
- Loose change stuck in ducts leading into blower motor – occassionally when the motor is on the change will bounce around the fan blades leading to an audible “pinging”
- No functional air conditioning
- Water pump upper o-ring leaking; coolant slowly leaking into engine
- Windshield molding peeling on passenger’s side
- A few small soldering-iron burn marks are present on the front seats
- Driver’s side lower door trim missing
- Various “pry-marks” on window trim due to attempts by vandals
- Large “ding” on trunk as a result of backing into a tree with the trunk open
- Small crack in rear driver’s side brakelight
- Temporary patch present in fuel line (discovered pinhole leak a few years ago) – entire line should be replaced
- Front brakes vibrate when applied for medium durations – most likely rotors are “out of round”
- Rear driver’s side brake caliper seized
- Short circuit present on radio/auxiliary fuse – have not determined location of short
- Metal housing over catalytic converter vibrates noisily at low RPMs
- Rear muffler and portions of tailpipe need to be replaced
- Wet or moist ambient air tends to lead to engine sputtering if engine is left off for over 8 hours or so (for example, a rainstorm overnight combined with the Volvo being parked outside usually leads to some nasty vibrations and sputtering when intially turned over the next morning). Most likely ignition, replaced FPR few years ago.

Possibly a few more things wrong... however those are essentially the major issues.








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How bad can it be, at only 116K, to scrap her? 200

Most of the stuff on the list is very minor cost wise. Junkyard hopping shoud find you all you need to fix up the interior. It is possible you will get lucky and find all the console stuff in the same car still in great shape. Pick n pulls are cheaper. Biggest deal is probably the blower motor, but that is only a big deal because you have to take the whole front console out of the car to access the B-M. Experience is worth paying for on this job, believe me!
If you luck out, you can probably get away with all the repairs for less than 1000 bucks. With the low mileage on that car it still has a lot of life left in it.
Chip








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How bad can it be, at only 116K, to scrap her? 200

You get the award for patience in typing.
Also for stamina, going through all that must not have been too pleasant.

Still a worthwhile beast, servicable for a patient and tolerant owner willing to do some work.
--
[aka Sophie's Maintainer] Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, E-fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute.







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