hi all,
since the 83 wagon got destroyed, i've been in the marked for a new wagon.
last night i saw an 89 wagon with 150k selling for 1500 obo (which is cheap for this area).

the good:
looks good/paint/body practically perfect
leather seats!
new tires
newish exhaust system


the bad:
a) when i test drove it, the check engine light came on (my old volvo never had check engine come on, so i don't know what it could be for....)
b) od button doesn't seem to work all the time (i'm betting that's just the relay, and i know how to solder it)
c) here's the funny stuff:
when you turn the ignition key, if you leave it in the 'all the way to on' position, the car dies! but if you jiggle the key back about 1/2 inch, the car works just fine. i'm thinking that's an electrical problem, but that's really just a guess....i'm hoping one of you may know something about this.
d) when i went to turn on the interior light, the light didn't come on, but the 'door open' sound started. you know, the 'ding ding' that comes on when your door is open? that sound - again, i thought that meant electrical gremlins.

e) car made a loud rough noise that sounded like it was coming from the exhaust system.....the sound got louder while accelerating.
f) when i put the car in park to look under the hood, it stopped running while i was looking under the hood. i think that was another symptom of the 'ignition key position' issue, but i'm not sure.

reading this list, i'm thinking 'wow, i must be crazy to consider this car'. but it seemed to run strong, especially up hills. i'm hoping that all these things sound like minor concerns. it's definitely the nicest looking car i've ever driven, but if these problems sound serious, i'll just walk away since i don't have tons of money/time/know-how...

also though, are 89's generally easy to work on, in comparison to an 83? i could at least understand everything marginally on the 83, i've never had a newer volvo.

sorry for the long post. any info appreciated.
this car was BEAUTIFUL. if you had seen it, you'd understand why i'm trying to rationalize it, despite having a feeling that these issues are not minor....

thanks!!
susan.
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Emperor for Life - Leaky Volvo Club of America (LVCOA)

You might ask your mechanic to put it on a lift and really inspect the underbody for rust, poking at all the floor boards.

thanks for the responses so far!

i won't rule this one out yet - i do have a great mechanic who helped me with my old car (he used to tell me how to do the work, and then if i screwed it up/couldn't handle it, then he'd do the job - he'd always give me the option of trying/learning to do it myself first).

if i go for it, i will most DEFINITELY not pay $1500 - i will see if my mechanic can diagnose any/all of these problems on monday to get a better sense of what the car would be worth.

i will be looking at my repair manuals in the meantime to see if i can figure anything out myself. i haven't given up hope on this one yet!!! (i've been car-less for a couple months now, patiently looking for just the right one, so i don't mind if i have to wait a bit longer).

i wish you all could see this car though - the body is so nice, it's almost too nice for me, who will probably beat it to heck taking it camping!
:)
have a good weekend!
susan
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Emperor for Life - Leaky Volvo Club of America (LVCOA)

Good thoughts all around. I'd go for it. As others pointed out, nothing you can't get along with till you figure out the gremlin(s), and have the bucks for gremlin removal. Bought my 89 wagon, with 173K on the clock (50K more than I'd usually buy), check engine lite a blaze, and had a worthless auto tranny. PO should not be allowed to own anything that requires maintenance. He never heard of changing filters.....arrrgh!!! I had many doubts/ fears as 'Olgray' , and I were getting to know one another. Long story short, first week, replace of all rubber hoses/ belts, full tune up, and all (I mean all) filters, brakes, and stiffer shocks, in the back (I added a Volvo hitch). 231K "Olgray" had a tranny transplant....M 47. Replaced 25 AMP fuse with an all weather (marine) 25 AMP fuse holder. At 307K "Olgray" stays just ahead of the Interstate crowd, sips a gallon every 30-31 miles, just a tad more thirsty in town. Has shamed many a "Ricer", and has been one of the best Bricks I've ever owned, save my 242 Turbo. Oh, did I mention.....the "check engine" lite is still on !!?? The code tells me I need a new Oxygen sensor. Maybe next week......

Yeah, I'd go for it.
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84, 242GLTi, 167K, 4+OD, in rehab; 89, 245 DL, 305K, M 47, daily driver; 93, 245, auto, 167K ; and other toys.

A good solid rust free body is the most important part of an older 240. Everything else is pretty easy to deal with, has it received good regular maintenance? Sounds like a potential good car, how many miles on it? Dan

hi,

it has about 150k on it. it looks beautiful, you should see it! still haven't had a chance to have my mechanic look at it though.....i'm very curious to see what he'll think about it.

it's tempting - i'm not sure i trust the seller. in the listing and on the phone, he never indicated that anything was wrong with it.....seemed surprised when i told him about the engine light.... a friend of mine said today 'if you can't trust the seller, you won't be able to trust the car'...hmmmm...

no one else has bought it.....i've seen cheaper, uglier cars sell faster than this one, which gives me pause.
we'll see!

--
Emperor for Life - Leaky Volvo Club of America (LVCOA)

I have an 89 240 that we bought new and has been very reliable. But the one you are looking at is probably at the point some money needs to be spent on it. I find that although I do most of my own repairs it still costs about $500 a year for parts, etc. So if it has been neglected the repairs add up.

a)May need a complete tune up $50 or an oxygen sensor $130 or Air Mass Meter $300 or Computer $?? (find one in a late model junker). Check also the air box thermostat (see 700 FAQ)
b)probably the relay or could be solenoid
c)Ipd sells new ignition switchs that might solve the problem, they say it is an easy fix
d)??
e)probably has an exhaust leak somewhere, if it has the original exhaust system it is easy to replace just the piece that is defective. Feel along the manifold to pipe (don't touch) while the car is running for hot air escaping.
f)could also be the neutral position switch that is located next to the shifer (under the cover on the floor), if it is not moving with the shift lever it will not let the car run, otherwise probably ignition switch

From what you have said you probably could have it in reliable condition for less than an additional $500. It will also probably need new bushings and shocks at that age if they have not been replaced. But if the rest is in good condition it sounds like a worthwhile project. Let the seller know you will need to spend money on it and maybe get a better deal. Good luck.

OK, so you know it needs
Exhaust work
Electrical gremlins found + fixed
Check-Engine light (see below)

Offer way less than the $1500 if you do go for it!

PLUS you will then find the other things that you couldn't check while test-driving. I predict you will find them during the first month of ownership. That's how my "new" '89 245 worked out when I bought it last fall. Mine needed a full brake job, in-tank pump and fuel level sender, first exhaust pipe, shocks.

The '89s were past the era of self-destructing wiring. Wiring on them can go bad, but problems are most likely caused elsewhere, like switches or relays etc.

Check Engine light indicates a problem with the computer-controlled fuel injection/ignition system. The '89 has "On Board Diagnostics". This is a small box at rear of engine compartment, driver's side. It has a blinking light readout system. The FAQ will tell you how to decode it. The '89 240 has an LH2.4 ignition system (Jetronic).

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

Usually the OBD ends up telling you that the mixture is either too rich or too lean; it doesn't know which. Occasionally it will tell someone something more specific. Anyway, the cause could be anything from a loose wire to a need for a new Oxygen sensor or ECU (computer) or fuel injectors.

Strange chimes and ign. switch behavior - - -
Sounds like maybe a problem with the ignition switch. It's misinterpreting the position you're setting it to. It also has a sensor for "key left in ignition with door open" that rings the chimes, I think that's what's going off when you tried the dome light. The switch has springs that can get gummed up - I suspect that's what's happening. Maybe needs a new switch or a good cleaning of the old one. Switch fits on back of lock/key assembly. OK for a do-it-yourself job - requires pretzeling yourself in there to get at it.

If you're on the East coast, you could look for another $1500 Volvo. I keep seeing them here. If out West, your market may be different. A car that dies while you go to look at it is not a good sign. Maybe they would take half their asking price when they see that. They know darn well the car has some problems.
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[aka Sophie's Maintainer] Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, E-fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute.

I'd get some of this stuff figured out before you buy it. The 89's had computers that sometimes went bad. They can be upgraded though, so it's not necessarily a reason not to buy the car. I'd have it looked at by a good Volvo mechanic.
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Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto; 81 242 Turbo, intercooled, M46, 122k.

Electical gremlins can bedevil you, but these sound like they MIGHT be things you could live with until you figured them out.

But what would really concern me is the fact that the check engine light came on while you were driving it. That tells me that the seller turned it off and hoped it wouldn't come back while someone was testing it. So he/she isn't being completely honest. The car will tell you why the light came on though. Look in the 700/900 FAQ for OBD dignostics codes. The LH 2.4 system on this 240 is the same as the one on the 740 and so are the codes.

I think LH 2.4 is pretty easy to understand and work on. And parts for those model years are abundant in the boneyards these days.
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Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 153K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '88 244 184K