In one of my old IPD catalogs ther was a troubleshooting tip for checking the current draw for both the in-tank pre-pump and the main fuel pump.

In-tank Pre-pump - After removing fuse #4 I used my Fluke 179 meter across both terminals to check current draw with the motor running. Tech Tip said amp draw It is supposed to be 3-4 amps. Basically I had a zero (0.001 Amps) reading so that means the pre-pump is gone according to them.

Main Fuel Pump - After removing Fuse #6 I used the same procedure. The current draw is supposed to be 9.5 amps but I never got a reading because the car wouldn't start. Same as if I didn't have the fuse in except the meter wouldn't act as the fuse. Note I didn't blow the meter internal fuse.

Is it possible the meter would not function as the Tech Tip said it would? If that were the case was my first reading suspect? Meter was set to DC Amps. I'm almost ready to try the shotgun approach (buy everything from the pre-pump, main pump, and fuel pump relay) but we're talking about $300 for everything. Just want to be sure.

Once I get the car started it will run. But if the car is hot or if I try to start the car after a short trip I have to hold my foot on the gas pedal to kepp it running until I get moving.

Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Best regards,

bob adams

(2)- '92 240 S/Ws or I think you guys are calling them 245s (I'm slowly learning the lingo?)