Earlier this year, April-May-June I was on the BrickBoard for advice in dxing a problem, see above, I was stumped on.

Wanted to thank everyone for their comments and to report a sudden 12/2005 solution, unexpected, to the problem.

Also wanted to raise a question about "failure" of the 25amp bayonet fuse in the driver's side engine wall in the engine compartment:

In late December I put my charger on the vehicle which had been in my garage for the past months, deep charge automatic cycle, as we were expecting a bitter cold snap.

At the time I found an unused packet of the 25 amp bayonet style fuses in the box with the charger and put one in the socket in the engine compartment.

Voila, the next day the vehicle started.

Immediately went out and bought three more packages of 25 amp bayonet fuses.

Car has been working fine since then, but here's the problem.

Saved the "good" new fuses I tried in the car that would not start, as well as the original "bad" 25 amp fuse in the car when it would not start back in April 2005 and tested them on my brother-in-laws auto test meter.

According to the test meter all of these fuses tested "good", that is they showed maximum current, but when put back in the car it would not start.

Replacing the bad/good old fuses with the new fuses and the car starts consistently.

Any ideas what's going on?

Has anyone run into a bad batch of fuses which test OK, but aren't?

Also tested the continuity of the socket in the engine compartment, it's ok,
so what else could be wrong, what could make a good fuse go bad?

Happy and Healthy New Year to all.

1989guy

PS - vehicle is about to turn 200,000 miles and the link to request high mileage badges from Volvo no longer works. Anybody know how else to request?
Tried at my local dealers, but they are so into newer vehicles I had to park in the back and enter through the tradesman's door, as it were, and they said they "were out of the high mileage forms." on three separate occasions.