Both were broken on my son's wagon, so Advance AP got me 2 new ones and with the advice from youse guys, here I went.

Jacked up the car, put it on 2 jackstands and then with a 4x4 and my jack across the oil pan, not on the plug, raised the engine. I heard to start w/ the drivers side on some threads, the passenger in others. I chose the driver's side. Piece of cake, unbolted the 3 upper bolts and 3 lower nuts, slid it out both brackets and replaced the mount on my bench vise. Re aligining it was pretty easy. Hand tightened the upper mount bolts to the engine first and put a piece of rope around the lower mount and bracket and pulled on the bottom mount while slowly lowering the engine to get it in the frame holes. Hand tightened the frame nuts a few turns only (for reasons to be explained later). Went back up and snugged the engine frame bolts up tight. Took me about 45 minutes from start to this point and then, I went to the other side. . .the dark side of the engine. . .the passenger side. . .the side of death. . .

On this side, got 2 of the 3 frame nuts off and then the third one rounded off on me. After about an hour and a half, I finally got it off w/ impact wrench and removed the lower bracket. Did NOT take the upper motor bracket off, (due to the inacessability of the front bolt when the mount is installed.) I unbolted the broken mount out of the top bracket,(easy access). Put the new mount on the removed bottom bracket in my bench vise, took it back to the car, and dropped it in 2 of the 3 frame holes, hand tightened 2 of the 3 frame nuts,and then began the tugging on the bolt on the top of the new mount in an attempt to get it in the upper bracket hole. The hard part was getting the top mount bolt into the upper bracket. I already had the thing jacked up to the top of the garage and was afraid to push it further. Got the rope out and pulled like a sonofagun on the top of the new mount. Got it close to the hole, and gently tapped it into the bracket hole with a 1 inch wrench and a hammer. When the upper bolt popped into place inside the upper bracket mount, the third and final bottom bracket bolt dropped into place in the frame. Put the nut on the top mount bolt hand tight it inside the bracket. Lowered the passenger side and tightened the 3 frame nuts snug and then the upper mount nut snug inside the bracket. Went over to the drivers side and tightened the lower bracket nuts there (remember, they were only hand tightend). Lowered the car, finished. The tranny mount was fine, it had been replace <5 yrs ago following rear main oil seal job. Whew. Things I learned/advice:
1. Get someone to help line up the holes while lowering the jack. Tugging on the mount with rope to align/coax would have been easier with 2 hands, instead of one hand having to lower the jack and pulling the rope with the other.
2. Since both mounts were broken I was able to jack the whole thing up in the center of the oil pan and the wood 4x4. This was no problem for the driver side, but the passenger side definitely needed to be jacked up on THAT side only. Hand tighten the bottom bracket bolts of the driver side mount A FEW TURNS ONLY, in that when you jack up the passenger side to replace it you will get some relief, and buddy you will need it. You will go back later and snug them up once the passenger side is finished.
3. Don't do this job without a breaker bar or impact wrench. I would suggest the latter. I was using standard 3/8 inch socket set until I rounded one of the passenger frame nuts. I had to stop and go to the Auto parts store for a 15mm impact socket and hook up the impact wrench. It would have been easier if I had used the impact wrench in the FIRST place, in that the one nut I rounded off was seized.
4. Do not think you can get cleaned up with standard hand soap, get some Gojo or equivalent hand cleaner. This grime on my hands and arms would not come off completely, even with Gojo and 30 minutes in the shower. I didn't wear mechanix gloves, and I should have.
5. Remember SAFETY FIRST. Every time I jacked up the engine, I placed a steel wedge in between the bottom of the oil pan and the cross frame, just in case the jack slipped or failed. Didn't want any crushed fingers.

There are others who have done this job easier, listen to them not me if you chose. Overall I would have no problems doing it again. Dirty, dirty job though.
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93' 240 Classic Wagon 220K & 92' 740 Wagon Regina/Rex 90K