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Prepping for A/C Retrofit 200 1986

So I've read all the threads I can find about the retrofit. I read the 700/900 retrofit that is online. I have an R12 system that was last really serviced in 2001 (several new hoses and a charge up). Despite being (to my knowledge) the original Di-Kiki compressor with 312k miles on it, it still kicks on when I jump the low-pressure switch on the rec/dryer.

I did this troubleshooting:
A/C failed about 6 mos ago. Ignored it until it got hot outside. It's a spare car and I have some space in the garage, so it gets a little attention now.
Jumped the low-pressure switch, compressor sounds normal, don't see anything in the sight-glass, temp at the vents with fan on high does not change at all after 1-2 mins with the compressor on.

I have the Volvo retrofit from FCPGro that includes the upgraded evap. So I will put that all in (there are a lot of leaves in the evap area and over the trans tunnel -- what to do about that? And any thoughts about adding a later-model hep/cabin filter in there ala the FWD cars while I've got things apart or will this just cause problems because you won't be able to change it way down the road?)

I'll pull the compressor and drain the oil and change the seals and add all the parts. I didn't think about changing the condenser until I read a couple of Chris Herbst's posts -- makes sense, but since this is a job I need to finish this weekend and I won't be able to get the part in time, will adding an electric pusher fan (and the bigger evap) get me far enough along that I'll at least see R12-like performance/temperatures? I'm in So Cal and we're in the middle of a mild heat wave (98 or so yesterday).

Some questions:
Since this is an '86 and presumably a TXV system, then I should not go hunting for the Orifice Tube, right? That whole Variable Orifice Valve upgrade is only applicable to the later cars, right?

No instructions, so where should I put the new T fitting with the Schraeder fill valve? Low side, right at the back of the compressor? Or is there a better place.

And where does the new hose that comes in the kit go -- from the comp to the evap? Seems like it by the size of the fittings, but I haven't torn much apart yet.

Do I really need ALL THAT BUTYL-based TAPE? I hate that stuff and they gave me 2 rolls of it. I know where it needs to go, but when will it be overkill?

Don't think I'll have any problems with the compressor, but if so, I have the compressor off a '93 940T laying around (car was crashed, I got the engine for the race car, didn't need A/C). PN 6841028 (also stamped SS-121DS5). Looks like all the other Sanden/DiKiki's (though it says Seiko Seiki). I will probably be upgrading the A/C on an 82 242T that we have that currently has a dead York -- if I don't need this comp for the job on the 245, any problems using it on the 242 (obviously with the 90+ PS/AC bracket).

After everything is installed on the 245, I will take it in for vacuum/charge and let them suck it and fill it. Am I missing anything other than sanity (considering the evap part of this job)? This is my first AC job. I've broken and fixed a lot of other stuff, but this system has always scared me. Thx in advance. Cheers.






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New Prepping for A/C Retrofit [200][1986]
posted by  rallybrick01  on Thu Jul 5 19:50 CST 2007 >


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