So while I am waiting for the temps to drop, wanted to pass along a couple of observations of a couple of things found while changing out the Oil Pan, Intake, and Exhaust Manifold Gaskets on Inga.

On the Oil Pan gasket change out, found Arts Oil Pan Gasket Notes very useful. Already had the rack out for rebuild, but to get that pan out of there you pretty much have to drop the center brace and then rotate the pan towards the drivers side of the car. Had to leave the engine hanging on the Art Inspired engine lift (18 gauge metal brace with a 4x4 under it, eye bolt and shackle on the front lift brace). Took out the Motor Mounts, jacked up the engine and then tightened the nut on the eye bolt to hold the engine up and in place. The engine was rock steady with the metal strip on top of the 4x4 holding on the lift point on the thermostat housing. The engine was dry, took the cowling and radiator out and the oil was drained already.

Not sure if what I found next was from age or the last 20K running full synthetic oil, or 238K miles. There was a layer of red/black sludge for a lack of a better description in the very bottom of the oil pan about .200 thick in a couple of spots. Was able to wash it right out with a oil based solvent and that was the only place the goo or sludge deposit was found. There was a tiny bit of very fine metal powder on the magnetic oil pan plug when it was checked. Dragging a magnet though the sludge yielded nothing and that was a relief. Checking the the breather box down tube found nothing busted, but it was not tapered as per another post on the subject. It was the same diameter from top to bottom, or at least it did not look tapered to me. Not sure if it was ever changed in the past but it was flexible and in good shape so left it alone. After Cleaning the pan and the seal surfaces, put the new cork pan gasket on. Getting the center brace lined up and bolted back in there, and lowering the engine back down was faster that I thought it would be. Glad to get that motor down of the brace and back on the motor mounts.

The exhaust manifold had a surprise for me, it was just about to burn out in one spot and well on the way in another. After getting a good overnight soak in PB Blaster, used the new impact wrench to pop the nuts and or studs loose on the manifold. Only two studs came out when the nuts were loosened. Did break off the very end of one of the bolts that hold the header pipe on, but it came loose while I was drilling it. The gasket and the manifold side of cylinders four and three were very bad. Makes sense after thinking about it because they have the most metal mass that can expand and contract. Had maybe .050 left on the bottom side of #4, and maybe .125 on the back side of #3. Took quite a bit of filing and polishing to get it all level and ready to go back on. May should have replaced it, but going with the home repair first. I have to admit that amount of damage or wear was unexpected. Got the new header pipe on and am now waiting for a parts supplier located in the Northeastern part of the USA to send me the correct header plug for the O2 Sensor. That oil pan drain plug that they shipped under the header plug part number will not fit in the hole for some reason.

The condition of the intake manifold gasket was a whole lot better, no real issues. But while cleaning the throttle body came across another unexpected item. Pulled the Throttle Body Position Switch off and found a good amount of oily sludge in around the pin that connects into the switch. Sprayed a a shot of throttle body cleaner in the switch and suddenly all this oil came out of the switch mixed in with the cleaner. Took several shots of cleaner and a couple of blasts of air to get it cleaned up. Lubed the inside of the switch with a good light oil and made sure that the switch was adjusted correctly with an ohm-meter.

Almost time to pour in the new oil, fill up the radiator after giving it a good flush, and hook up the steering.

Regards,

Paul