Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Warnings or Advice about front crossmember swap? 1968 to 1965 120-130

First off, I've already dropped the 68's front end and swapped in the 65's crossmember and suspension. It was a "not-fun" first time experience, but I think I could pull it off much more elegantly next time. The big, heavy unit was quite awkward when working with just a floor jack and several jackstands.

I did this with the engine still in - which I would recommend avoiding if you can. I think I was lucky that I've only managed to wreck an old engine mount in the whole swap.

As to why, I opted to swap the whole crossmember because my lower A-arm bushings are completely shot, I do not have a hydraulic press, and my $50.00 electric impact wrench died last weekend. The 65's front was recently rebuilt, so I'm getting good bushings and joints from the deal.

Since the steering columns/boxes vary, I used a pitman arm puller to free the steering arm from the 68's box. I marked it before removal and I marked the 65's steering arm as closely as possible. I simply bolted the 65's idler arm setup to the 68.

I'm going to torque the suspension/frame bolts and bend the keepers over today and then get the brake system bled-out.

What I've learned so far is that the idler arm mount on a 65 has a grease nipple and the mount is somewhat thinner than the 68's sealed unit. The shock mounts are a single-bolt-and-tab sort of affair (this reminds me of Phil Singher's "Nagging Clunk"" article.

What I'd like to know is if there are any compatibility issues I should know of. I seem to think that 1966 was the cutoff for a lot of parts and fittings. While the older unit bolts up just fine, will it perform properly? Is there anything that is just plain incompatible, even though it "fits."

Thanks as always.






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New Warnings or Advice about front crossmember swap? 1968 to 1965 [120-130]
posted by  RepairmanJackal subscriber  on Sat Jul 19 04:13 CST 2008 >


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