With the good advice of other BB folks, I did the job last Thursday.

The scissor-type jack from a 240 got the car high enough to remove the wheel. As always, I used a large chock on the opposite front wheel when jacking up a car. I could not quicklu figure out where to put a jack stand, so I did the job with exceeding care. No problem was encountered, even during torque-ing the bolt on the guide pin to spec.

Lesson: Without the wheel, the rear axle on my IRS-equiped car gradually dropped down. This I noticed when attempting to refit the wheel. The axle had dropped about an inch! Fortunately it was easy to raise the car 15 more cranks of the jack.

Then I followed the steps in the Volvo Service Manual. It was amazingly easy, moreso that a 240! The manual calls for a 15mm "spanner" which, I learned, is an open-end wrench. Fortunately my small double-ended Crescent wrench sufficed.

Next lesson: The pads removed were non-Volvo. On comparing them with the new Volvo pads, I found that the brake material on the Volvo pads was of equal height, but 3/8-inch longer. Hmmm, 3.375 inches compared to 3.0 inches means a significantly (12.5%) larger braking area.

The other lesson, more of a trick than a lesson, was in the application of anti-sieze to the wheel studs. On the second wheel, I applied the anti-sieze to the studs prior to fitting the wheel. Much easier to do, and most of it was in place after I got the wheel in place.

After all, it was a simple job. Next are the front pads, since wer are still hearing a noise when braking, sometimes. Looks like an easy job, too.


Thanks for "listening"

Bob

:>)


PS: The Volvo pads were P/N 31261186. Borton Volvo charged $30.33, plus shipping.