Have a strange one, have this feeling this is not over.....

This is a 1986 245DL (AKA Inga) with somewhere around 245K miles. Inga has the following added electrical devices, Sony radio, non Volvo fog lights, pusher fan out of an 91 model, VOM, Oil pressure gauge, and the cigarette lighter (dash DC power source) is hard wired to non-switched 12 Volts. All but power outlet are connected to switched power and and they turn off with the key. And all of them are also fused separately with sealed fuse holders with the exception of the two gauges. Inga has an less than one year old replacement 100 Amp Alt out of a 740. All the connections to the ground and the Starter/Alt were replaced this summer with new cables and connectors. The Starter is a donor part from this summer, has had zero issues since installed. Adding all the non 86 stuff and replacement stuff for reference.

This started last week at night as I started to make the run home, walked out to Inga and hit the key. She fired up and pulling out of the parking spot suddenly died, that is not normal but it was cooler that has been that night. Turned the key to restart and not a sound, no dimming lights, no click, zip, it was as if the key was not making connection. But the Voltage read 10 volts on the VOM and my thought was dead or drained battery. Called for a jump from our crack security staff and after waiting 10 minutes got bored and turned the key, Ings slowing cranked and then fired up and ran. Called off the jump request and headed home. Put the whole thing down to a light in the car left on when a door did not shut all the way, but that is conjecture not a for sure. Next AM she roared to life and I went on my way happy that the problem was gone.

No more issues until last night, she started and then died right as I was putting her in gear. Once again all the lights were bright and no click or lights dimming when the key was turned. This time a F150 pickup gave me a jump, tied ground to the block and plus to the battery terminal. The starter ripped that engine to life with a twist of the key. My line of thought since the jump worked that it must be the battery and headed to Advanced to get a replacement. The battery is less than two years old and still under warranty. They pulled it out and put it on the tester. After what seemed like forever the battery tested good. Took it outside and hooked it up and had same problem. Checked all the connections to the chassis, block, and starter. All were clean and tight and still no start. Suspected the Neutral safety switch may be the issue and did the reset on the shifter a couple of time, also started to think maybe the ignition itself might be the problem. Asked them to give me a jump and we hooked it up to one of the delivery trucks. Turn the key and instantly she roared to life. Turned her off and disconnected the other vehicle. Turned the key and she would turn over, but the lights were bright. To eliminate one difference from the jump, connected the battery ground via the jumper cable to the same place on the block where the neg was connected but no luck. Went inside and got another battery and sat it in Inga and connected the terminals, that starter hit like champ and she roared to life. The store gave me the battery after 10 minutes of computer work and I was on my way.

I just have this feeling I am missing something and this is coming back. Going to double check all the grounds. My VOM starts out an almost 14 and slowly works its way down to like 13.2 volts every single day. Measuring with a VOM matches the reading on the VOM pretty closely. Hooked a clamp on amp meter to the plus lead with everything turned off, there was a tiny current, suspect the radio may draw a minute amount. But that was less than 3 milliamps, and that will not suck down a battery.

I plan to double check both the connections to the starter and the chassis grounds. Will also check the connections in the fuse box related to the ignition. Have a jumper made up to bypass the Neutral Safety switch. Going to go down and have the machine hooked to the charging system and see how much current is moving and what the alternator reads on it.

I would buy into the battery being the problem if maybe there was an issue internally that did not show up in the load test. But that is about the only thing I can come up that explains what happened with the battery as the failure. It was watching that sucker pass both a discharge and recharge that tosses a wrench in for me.

Is there anything else I should be checking just in case my paranoia is right?

Thanks in advance for any assistance or guidance you can offer.

Oh yes and very hearty politically incorrect Merry Christmas season. May the Joy and Peace of the Lord be with all of you and yours.

Paul