After several parts and a defective part the 240DL is back to normal finally.
I did learn things along the way however.

It started with loss of power at random times.
When I first bought this car I had made a trip to the junkyard and bought up a bunch of stuff, to fix it up then. AMM, injectors, chip for the speedo, trunk latch and trunk latch motor. Those along with a new exhaust system and O2 sensor off ebay, got it running pretty good. All good for about 2 years now.
So anyhow a month ago the car did this loss of power thing. You could floor it and eventually sometimes it would run ok, and then might even run a whole day with no trouble. So my thoughts ran to the AMM since the one I put into it ended up from a 740 and ended in 017. So I found a used one on Ebay ordered it and swapped. Well it seemed to run a little better for a day and then wham once again the loss of power. So after playing around it seemed like a fuel problem. Tried the injector cleaner, pulled out the injectors and soaked them in parts cleaner. Nope still the same. Read here and decided FPR may be bad. Bought one from local parts store. Well rather not name names, but in the past I had gotten a bad part also. Anyhow put it in, discovered I had bent the mounting tab a little and it decided to leak fuel a tiny bit. Fixed that in a hurry. Wham ran great for nearly a month. Then about month and 1/2 it starts doing the same things, run good until warmed up. I had kept the old FPR and swapped it back in and it ran the same, so now I figure the FPR was not the problem. Seemed ok for a couple of days, then wham back to run bad after warmup.
Decided at that point to do Timing belt. Put it in, ran a little better but still not the way it should. The timing belt I got had arrows to help line up the marks on the pulleys. Also to note I had NO problems installing it but I am still confused as to how the tension pulley actually puts tension on the belt after you tighten the bolt that holds it on, as that seems to bolt the sliding part down tight. Whatever... So more problems still. Finally drove it and at a certain point it suddenly just lost power, and stalled and would not start.
I played around and got it to barely run, and stuck some vise grip pliers on the return fuel line off the rail and it started to run ok. I made it home barely it was sputtering and running badly. So next day played around, and engine died while playing and would not start. Checked and discover we have no spark.
Well... So pulled the ignition module plug out, and rust and dirt fell out of it. Cleaned it put it back, still no spark. Started testing it, and discover that the coil wire has approx 5 volts on it at all times. Not good. pulled the coil and tested it, seemed ok, went to parts store and they offered to let me look at and test (ohm meter) a new coil and discovered it was good.
Put it back in, then pulled the entire ignition module out, and it was very hot.
Back on Ebay order another one, replaced, did it in a hurry and forgot I had unbolted the fuel rail, so put that back in when I did forgot to hook up one of the ground wires (2 of them) and guess what. No spark still. Ok, quit for the day came back and hooked the wire to ground, to discover it IS the ground to the ignition module, WOW... Ok, now it starts or at least tried. Swapped plugs as they had gotten black. Nope. Ok pinched the fuel line, got it to run. Poorly but running. Now my thoughts turned to bad fuel pump. Never figured the FPR at all.
So took out the fuel pump. Hmm, how can I test it... Well I happed to have an portable tire inflator, which has a built in pressure guage. So, foound a piece of hose to fit the input, clamped it on. Found a liter bottle of soda rinsed it out and filled with water. Hose fit perfectly into the bottle. The other end I had already replaced the 2 inch hose from pump to fuel filter, which had been replaced earlier on. So I unclamped it, and discover my tire inflator fit perfectly over the end. It has a nice flip lever that makes it clamp right on.
I took clip leads and energized the pump from the battery. Wham it came on, picked up the water and then ran for 5 seconds and then slowly stalled out, but the guage read an impressive 80 PSI of pressure. I then came to the conclusion were not talking about a bad fuel pump. 1/2 hour later it is back into the car underneath and so on. Ok so it is time to yank the FPR and see if by some reason it is messing up. Never had smell of gas from the vacuum hose also like many report here when they go bad. However as soon as I get it off, clack, it starts to rattle like a babys rattle. And quick blow into the end and completely OPEN.... Ok that now makes sense. So ordered one, got it today, installed. Note it is from the same parts store that sold me the original one.

OK hit the key, and Whirr and Purr... WOW never ran this nice....
Close the hood and off for a test drive. WOW.. never drove this good.
Ran it for a few miles and looks like it is all back to it's normal. And now it idles nice and smooth as well. From cold to normal just fine.

Soooooo.. If you have a no start or almost starts then take off the FPR and shake it and see if it rattles. Then wipe off the ends and give it a little blow and it should have reasonable resistance.

The thing that made this repair so costly and time consuming is that the problem was actually spark and fuel pressure. Having 2 problems causing a compounded problem was a nightmare.

Now just a few final notes. Under the back seat, on the drivers side, is a disconnect for the fuel pump. So those of you who are trying to find ways to bypass the fuel pump, you can disconnect jump 12v to it, and/or probe it there quite nicely. Also the ground for the fuel pump is right there also, and I suppose on some cars could corrode and be a problem, but mine was shiny and tight.
The In Tank pump wires are in the trunk and are a 2 wire plug but also has a green wire that is the ground for the pump and fuel guage. Mine did appear corroded so I purposely moved the screw to another hole which I scraped away the paint. It not only tighted better but I have peace of mind to know it is properly grounded. You can also disconnect the 2 wire harness and if you dont have a power antenna, there is a source of 12v on there you can use to test out the in tank pump and hear it humming.

Old age takes it toll on things. I discovered vacuum lines that had dried up and nearly falling off. Changed.... There is a 2 pin plug on the drivers side right behind the headlight. I think it may be for the headlight wiper option. If you look at your bumper there are little oblong holes covered by plastic plugs where they had headlight wiper/washer option. One can also see the plastic plug in there where they mount. What I would like to know is where the rear wiper goes. It was mentioned that some models were equipped. I wish mine was... Oh welll...
The cable sheathing for the Crank pickup on mine had rotted off. It left the wires somewhat exposed, wrapped by blue foil and twisted but not right.
Solution for me. I went to local parts store and picked up a can of Liquid Electrical Tape. Then using a plastic straw and a small piece of cloth taped to the end of the straw, I was able to successfully coat the wire with the liquid electrical tape. Works great...
Made no difference in how it runs but makes me feel a lot better.

Here is the one thing that I don't understand in this long journey. The problem I swear started when I put in STP fuel injector treatment. From a week after that, the car started all the problems. They just cascaded out of control.

What I love more than anything about the car is how it handles. I can take the twisty roads at more than normal speeds with complete confidence. It truly steers better than any car I have ever owned. Its average in performance but it cruises along the highway barely touching the gas. It brakes better than most cars, in smoothness.

I now plan to also perform the injector cleaning that is described using vacuum cleaner. I think that may make it run even better than it is now.