DIY Wheel Alignment for
1988 244 DL Volvo w/ 154,307 miles.

My primary reference was found at:

http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=15456

If you want a PDF of my version of the adjustment, with photos, drop me a request via email.

Introduction:
The ‘88 244 does not have rear wheel alignment. Toe and Camber are adjustable. Caster is factory set.

Specifications from Green Book.
Toe-in: 0 degrees 16 minutes with max. delta of 0 degrees 8 minutes. Calculated to be a difference of 1.5 mm +/- 1.0 mm Α.78/64 +/- 2.52 inch] across a 15 3/16” wheel [diameter taken at high point of rim]. I used 1/16 inch as my target setting.

Camber: +1/4 to +3/4 degrees with max. delta of 1/2 degree. Calculated to be a difference of 2/32” to 6/32” across a 15 3/16” wheel. I used 1/8” as my target setting.

Caster: +3 degree to +4 degree (not adjustable).

As the primary reference states “the procedure assumes that subframes and unibody are square and true. If your chassis is damaged "out of true" the procedure will still work, but” in my case I found the best Camber I was able to set was +1 degree, 1/4 degree too much. This may be due to a curb wreck that twisted the control arm and ball joint on that side. I have not at this time concluded on why or what to do about it.

I am a “shade tree” mechanic. My training is in architecture and construction and the “school of hard knock” interest in keeping my car operational.

History:
After years of a unbalanced front passenger tire, failing and failed bushings and a blown driver’s side front shock - I have gotten around to replacing all suspension bushings excepting the front stabilizer bar, replacing the front strut inserts (shocks), replacing tie rod ends and ball joints, replacing tires with 2nd hand “new” tires in good condition. I knew I needed an alignment from tire wear and a slight drift to the left - I didn’t know how much.

This job is worth the $120 +/- that is charged but I do not trust repair shops in my area. It took me 8 hours to do the adjustment on a uneven slope front to back and side to side surface. It took more than that in research and preparation. The actual adjustments only took 3 hours a lot of which was used finding out that the driver’s side camber was at maximum adjustment and still not in spec.

Hopefully these notes and better conditions can lower your time.

Tools & Supplies:
* camber gauge (24” mason’s level and metal rule)
* 48” mason’s level
* (2) 3 1/2” x 10' metal studs (straight edges)
* (4) self tapping metal screws
* (4) wood folding chairs
* (4) cement block
* assorted 1/2” and 3/4” plywood and 4x6 and 2x6 lumber
* (5) 12"x12"x1/8" commercial floor tiles (more are good to have on hand for final shimming to level)
* fishing line
* scissor jack
* 4 ton ‘structural’ hydraulic jack
* (2) adjustable wrenches
* metric crescent/box end wrenches
* wood shelf (to lock steering wheel)
* 6" metal scale with 32nd and 64th gradations
* bearing grease
* caulk
* multiple C -clamps and bar clamps
* line level
* 1/8” diameter threaded rod with (2) washers and nuts
* wheel blocks
* steady hands
* good eye sight (I bought magnifying glasses to read the metal scale)
* self education in Camber (Google it)

Initial fabrication:
* Jig arms: Measure 5’-6” centered on each metal stud and set a screws in the wide face. Cut shallow notch to set line location.
* Slip plates: Spread a thin layer of grease between two set of 12x12 tile. (WARNING: Putting these under your tires is the equivalent of being on ice - the car will move to set it’s center of gravity.)
* Inflate all tires equally


Step 1: level under tires
Find a level hard surface. The more level and flat a surface the easier your setup will be.

Drive the car onto a hard surface leaving 8 feet in front and 6 feet in back. 15 feet of width for walk around room was needed. Mark the center and outside face of all four tires. Back the car out. Using the caulk marks, metal stud and 4 foot level, map the topography of the hard surface. Assemble wood and vinyl tiles to create level points under the tires. Pull blocks to the side and drive car back to marked locations. Place roll stops on the down hill side of the rear tires. If the hard surface is sloped at all have the front end down hill to allow working room while adjusting the tie rod ends.

Jack the car and slide the assembled leveling platform under the tires. (WARNING: Putting these under your tires is the equivalent of being on ice - the car will move to set it center of gravity.) I put this warning twice because if you are lifting with a scissor jack it does not hold the car laterally and as the car goes up, the center of gravity changes and the wheel on the slide plate will move EASILY. I ended up using a hydraulic jack under the jack point to lift the car without it sliding sideways.

When the car is on the level pads double check level.


Step 2: set up jig cross arm stands
I used wood folding chairs and cement blocks for jig cross arm stands because they were readily available.

With a metal stud and level extend the level position from under the wheels to the side of the chair leg and mark (use tape).

From a wheel level pad measure up to the center of the rear wheel hub. I used the rear wheel because it has an indentation at the center. I clamped my line level between the washers and nuts on the end of a 3/16” dia. x 12” threaded rod, inserted the rod into the indentation, leveled it and measured to the leveling surface.

I transferred these heights to the wood chairs and adjusted down for the width of the metal stud.

Clamp a block to support the metal stud cross arm, and clamp another block to sandwich the stud to the chairs

Run fishing line around all the screws and over the notch. In the photo I used blue tape to hold the line in the notch and also had to mount the stud upside down because the chair seat ended up obstructing the mounting location due to the slope I was working on.

I would not do this with all four wheels on greased pads. Since the rear wheels were not adjustable they did the major work of anchoring the car to the ground.


Step 3: center and lock the steering wheel
Another reason I didn’t take the car to a shop was the last time I had an alignment done at the dealer they left my steering wheel on an angle. Lord knows what I wouldn’t have heard about the driver’s side Camber adjustment.


Step 4: set jig lines
This involves measuring at each wheel and slowly moving the lines to be equidistant from each back and each front wheel. Note that the front and rear wheels are not the same distance apart by design. At the end I was just giving a light tap to the end of the jig cross arm to move it a 64th of an inch.


Step 5: Check Camber
I could only adjust the strut top mount when the car was lifted to take the weight off the wheel. The “special tool” in this case was my fingers. The slide plates allow the suspension to settle out to is running position so using the hydraulic jack I measured, lifted adjusted, dropped, measured .... I made a table to track measurements. Amazingly this only took about three cycles to get the camber set. I also used the 3 small notches it the top mounting crescent plate in relation to the dimple in the top of the strut tower to make the adjustments so I was working to 1/32” when moving the strut mount.


Step 6: adjust toe-in
Using a metal rule I measured at the front and back of the wheel rim along the jig line. The tie rod makes about a 1/64” inch adjustment per 1/4 turn.

Conclusion:
The jig is the nightmare.
The big expensive piece of equipment they drive the car onto to do aligments is a jig.
The adjustments just require attention to detail.
I wish I had spent more time prefabricating my jig frame. It would have saved me time in the end.
I really need a garage.