I say another because since my problem began, I've read many, many posts on the subject, re-read some, F.A.Q.'s, and back and forth to the Haynes as well. I have an 86 240 with approximately 290k(I just repaired the Odometer a few weeks ago) that I've been trying to get back in good working order. The car and it's maintenance was heavily neglected so in an attempt to reverse some of this, I've done some of the basics.

What I've done;

New Flame trap and hoses
Oil and Filter change
New spark plugs and wires
New thermostat
Most recently, cleaned; I.A.C., Throttle Body, A.M.M.
I had cleaned the Throttle Body and I.A.C. a couple of months back wich resulted in slightly higher idle of 1,000-1,100. This Saturday I decided to remove the flapper unit from my airbox, while I had the assembly out, I figured I'd give the I.A.C., T.B. and A.M.M. a good cleaning while all was apart. I was carefull not to leave anything disconnected and mindfull of the A.M.M. to T.B. hose and how it is a common source for air leaks when it cracks(I inspected it and found none). Once all was back together, I fired up the car and the idle shot up to 2,500, it'll drop to around 1,000 if I shift into Drive, I waited a few seconds and then shut the car off. Based on all I read, this is what I've tried;

Looked for air leaks and cracked hoses

Adjusted the Idle Stop Screw, I can hear the T.P.S. click just as I crack open the throttle.

I've tried to ground the blue/white wire at the test port with no change to the idle, with plain wire and with string of resistors and l.e.d.

What I see/suspect are;

I havent't properly adjusted the idle stop screw?
The black thumscrew(bypass) on the A.M.M. is turned all the way in?
The (pot) adjustment screw on the A.M.M. is screwed most all the way in?
The lower(kickdown cable?) has some slack in it.

I'm not sure which of the above could be the cause or is it possible I destroyed one or more of these parts instead of imporving their function with some long overdue maintenance?

Is it possible that the slack in the Kickdown Cable is not pulling back enough to close the T.P.S. Switch? I ask because, when I turn the cam by hand to crack open the throttle, I can hear the T.P.S. click but have to turn it back slightly the other way to get it to click back(hope that makes sense) as if the slack allows the throttle plate to stay open.

Sorry about the long post, just want to make sure I give enough information and history. I'm sure I've left someting out but hope that's a good start. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Fortunately the car is not my only one so for now, it's parked and out of operation till I can sort this out.

Thanks for reading what I hope won't be the longest post/plea for help in the history of the B.B.

Antonio