Folks,

In a lame attempt to begin a partial repayment to everyone for helping me out so much, I'd like to throw in a tip for replacing the CPS.. a job my son and I did yesterday.

I've read the various hints and tricks in the FAQs and other posts, but it really isn't as difficult as many of the write-ups make it seem. Perhaps we got lucky. In any case here's a few things "submitted for your approval" ...

1. Cleaning the mounting site before hand is, of course, a good idea. Brake cleaner and/or PB blaster can easily be sprayed on the area from the exhaust side of the engine with one of those flexible red tubes for aiming that comes with the can but that we all lose.. at least, I do..

2. One person mentioned that if you have long thin arms, you can get at the nut w/ a standard 10mm box wrench. I have your basic standard sized 160lb 5'8" guy arm. I was able to get the wrench on it and get it cracked loose pretty easily, but there's almost no room to reseat the wrench for the next turn. A 12 point wrench would have worked better, but I only had a 6 point. Getting at it w/ my fingers was really painful and required some severe wrist contortions. Ouch.

3. Someone, I think in the FAQ, wrote that you could access the nut with a 1/4" 10mm socket, a 3" extension, a universal swivel joint, and a 21" extension, from the exhaust side. Yeah.. maybe.. I tried a bit of that, but found that the 3" extension was still a bit long for the first "leg" of the chain, and the chain is so floppy it's tough to keep it lined up. The good news.. there's a MUCH easier way...

4. Use a 14" 1/4" extension (you could get away with a 12", I think, but a 10" would be too short) with a universal swivel on the end and the 10mm socket, and go in almost directly above the nut between some of the hoses by the firewall. It's almost a straight shot down, and the swivel makes up for any angle issues. That's also a good spot to shine a light on. Watch the nut by keeping your head low on the exhaust side while working the extention/socket from above. It's really a piece of cake, and virtually no pain or contortion involved. One person can do it alone, although a helper to hold the light is nice. The only slightly difficult part was getting the new sensor resting in place and getting the bolt restarted...

5. Place the sensor using your left hand/arm from the exhaust side again. You may have to twist uncomfortably for a bit, but it's not bad.

6. Using one of those magnetic retrieval wand thingies, place the bolt in through the same access you used w/ the socket extension.. from above. Guide it in by looking from the exhaust side as before, then reach in with your left hand, hold the bolt in place while you remove the magnetic wand, and carefully get the threads started.

7. Thread the socket/extension through as before and tighten her up.

Assuming nothing sticks together removing the old one, it can be a 15 minute job. Ours came out quite easily, and we have quite a bit of rust issues.. it's a central NY car. I didn't experience any of the bracket issues that have so frequently been mentioned, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't proceed carefully. Our sensor lifted right out and was loose the minute the bolt was loose. If you DO find that you've removed the bolt and the sensor is still immovable, heed the advice of others.. do NOT force it. Soak.. wiggle... soak.. take your time.

I hope that's of use to somebody.

Best to all.

Barry