As I contine to get this 89 245 wagon in an utterly reliable daily driver state, I just completed the job.

The FAQ was amazing, especially the photos of the crankshaft reference points to indicate TDC. I've never actually known the timing cover case and the little dimple in the outer crank pulley gear washer related to one another and came up with all kinds of new approaches of my own to mark this relationship. Hate recreating the wheel, but that is why the FAQ is there. Special thanks to Rhaire as always for his bit of insight. The photos were amazing and provided an AH HA experience.

I got stuck along the way becasue I put a nail in the wrong side of the tensioner causing it to keep an unnaturally amount of tension on the tensioner rather than take the tension off. Again, the pics created an ah ha moment.

I chose to use Volvo OEM (Viton I believe) seals. Dark grey in color. The reason for that was that the Elhing seals that I have sitting around waiting to go in the car say "made in China" and there will NEVER be a time that I will put anything Chinese in any of my vehicles. This decision was also made becasue the Elring seals that were leaking started leaking in less than 6 months time.

Thank God for specialty tools. Upon the advice of many, I had the crankshaft holder tool from the past, but made the investment of the OEM Volvo Crankshaft drift tool that gently slides the crankshaft seal in by hand. What an amazing tool. I understand that there are only 5 left in stock by the manufacturer. Please see posts by the amazing "lucid" as to how to purchase. I believe I paid around $32 bucks and that might well have included shipping. From my perspective there is no other way to do that crankshaft seal safely, effectively, and efficiently than with that tool. AMAZING!

Conitech belts (German) for timing and accessories were all replaced. I chose to use the Rouville (sp) tensioner as it was described as OEM, was definitely more expensive and has some kind of bearing that I guess is different and supposedly better. Who knows. It says "slovokia" on the tensioner. I would have been fine with an German or Japanese tensioner too.

The car started right up and runs well. There was an old Goodyear timing belt, Elring seals and a mix of accessory drive belts that made me cringe. Now, I've got my Volvo groove on and I just feel better knowing the right, or very close to right parts are in the car and I won't be looking at this job for at least another 50K miles, or more.

Finally, it is really important to tighten the crankshaft bolt according to proceedure. Any faint attempts to just crank it down will surely be met with future unhappiness. This one was so loose, it just took a bit of pressure to get it off. However, NOW, it's cranked down to 44lbs. + 60 degrees. Perfect. I am NOT a fan of screwing around with the end of a crankshaft that happens because people shear pulleys, screw up harmonic balancers, wallow key ways etc.. Been there done that, didn't like it.

Thanks goes out to the collective wisdom of all who have religiously posted on this board so as to help keep these amazing cars alive. They are simple, ingenious, high quality, fun and just feel right.

Out for a ride around town now.

JB