Howdy folks.

So about a week ago, I tore apart my dash to get to the heater core. As I removed the fuse/relay tray, I saw a jumper wire running from my fuel pump circuit to the sunroof, which I'm sure doesn't belong there. I think it was a hack-ish fix to a failed hybrid fuel-pump circuit on an old ECU. I removed it, and the car ran great for about a week.


Finally actually swapped cores last night and flushed (ran it around the block with tap water in it), then filled with Zerex G-05 and distilled water.

Now, I'm getting weird power losses at steady cruising speeds - any engine speed, it will start to bog down and moving the gas pedal does nothing unless I push it far enough to kick down a gear. If I am accelerating, it doesn't do it. If I'm cruising it does it the most, and sometimes if I am decelerating.
I got a Check Engine Light (CEL) and it threw two codes: 2-3-2 and 1-3-3.
I've never seen a 1-3-3 code before. The FAQ says that's 232 is too rich/lean at idle and the 1-3-3 says faulty TPS. I did get a high idle when I parked just after the CEL came on.


I pulled the AMM to try to get it to limp-home mode, and of course the idle jumped to 1300 when I did. Then I tried to drive off and it died. Restarted and died again. AMM reconnected it runs.
So I thought it must be a vacuum leak. In the process of doing the heater core last night, I moved this vacuum line that runs from the manifold on a 1/2" line to a check valve and then to a tiny vinyl line that runs through the firewall and supplies the vacuum reservoir mounted under the dash.
I checked around by spraying starting fluid at every vacuum fitting and air intake junction, and nothing made a difference. I don't think this fits the symptoms for the ignition amplifier overheating (plus it's 70F here, and I replaced the thermal paste 3 years ago. I do have a spare.).

What I think it might be:
-The jumper wire was critical to feed power to the fuel pump (with it attached, it runs constantly in KP2) because my non-pink label ECU somehow failed. The ECU is from 92. Don't recall the code off it right now, but it's easy enough to check.

-I caused a massive vacuum leak that I can't find somehow or damaged the check-valve.

-I messed up a wire to something like the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor that feeds the ECU somehow in the process of doing things.

-My brick is possessed by demons angry that I removed the original heater core

-The TPS is misadjusted so badly that it's playing with the IAC valve while I'm cruising with a part-open throttle. I think the easy fix for this is to simply disconnect the TPS (assuming it idles at all then). I cleaned the throttle body (TB) about 5-8K miles ago and replaced the TB gasket. I also adjusted the TPS when I did this. Maybe I left the adjusting screws slightly loose and they're managed to work their way completely loose so the TPS can flop around.

-The Radio Suppression Relay (RSR) has very haggard wiring from my engine swap 3.5 years ago. I pulled a pigtail and relay from the local wrecker on my way home. When I held my hand on the RSR and revved the engine, I could feel it sort of clicking, but not a solid click, more of a vibration or clicking on and off.


Can anybody help me narrow this down? I think that right now, I'll go replace the harness for the RSR after reinforcing this new-to-me used relay's solder. Then I will see if it runs with the TPS disconnected (or IAC). Then I will reconnect that jumper wire from fuse 11 to fuse 10 that I swear should not be there.

Cheers