EDIT: I realized I was doing the fuse box jump thing wrong. When I jumped from the RIGHT side of #4 to #6, the main pump (I think) whirred to life. When I popped out fuse #4 and jumped from the right to fuse #6, the in-tank pump comes to life. I might be getting somewhere. Both pumps work, so this means bad fuel pump relay, right? I hope so.

I'm leaving the below in case somebody already started reading it, and in case it helps somebody in the future.


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Hey Folks. I'm stuck. My 1989 240 wagon cranks like mad but won't start. With starting fluid it starts, but dies after a couple of seconds. I feel like I've narrowed it down somewhat:

-There's spark to the distributor and spark at the plugs. (I only tested one plug.)

-I removed the oil cap and had someone try to start it, and verified that the camshaft was moving.

-I tried unplugging the mass airflow sensor, but it made no difference. I also cleaned the contacts with CRC electrical contact cleaner.

-I jumped fuse #6 to fuse #4 (supposedly a test for the fuel pump relay), but didn't hear either fuel pump make any sound at all. Actually, no matter what I do, neither fuel pump makes any sound. I even stuck a hose down the fuel tank filler tube and put it up to my ear (with the ignition key turned on).

-I held the fuel pump relay in my hand while turning the key, and it definitely clicks.

-The 25 amp blade fuse in the engine compartment looked fine, but I replaced it anyway.

-I replaced the crankshaft position sensor because the car gave me the 2-1-4 error code.

Here's a little backstory: The car was running great, but it had hot start issues. When the car was hot and I re-started it, I'd need to give it a little gas to keep the engine from dying for the first 10-15 seconds or so. Then it idled and ran fine. Sounds like a possible crankshaft position sensor symptom, right?

For the last few weeks, when the car was at idle, I'd feel an occasional, minor hiccup. I thought I'd change the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires. couldn't hurt, right? After I did that, the car ran great for a mile or so on the test drive, then the engine died at a stop sign, and I could not get it started for more than a few seconds. The poor thing was bucking and shaking and even let out a few backfires.

I left it overnight. I figured I must have either put in a faulty component (or made some bonehead mistake), so I decided to backtrack by first taking out the new rotor and putting the old one back in. The car started up like a dream. I drove it around town, and it ran just fine until I started it up to leave the auto parts store. The engine would die every time at idle unless I gave it gas. I limped it home like that. By the next day, I couldn't even start it.

I got the error code for the crankshaft position sensor, so I ordered a new one. While I waited for it, I put a different new cap and rotor on, cleaned the throttle body with CRC Throttle Body Air Intake Cleaner (It was really dirty), modded the air filter box so that it always sucks in cool air (rather than preheated - I live where it's never cold, and my old spark plugs showed signs of excessive heat). I also found a broken hose that runs from the rollover valve to the charcoal canister and replaced that. I installed the new crankshaft position sensor and cleared the error codes from the little black box. All I get now from ports #2 and #6 are 1-1-1s, but since the engine hasn't actually been running, I don't know if new codes would show up.

I know this is too long, but I thought I'd preemptively answer some potential questions that I foresaw.

I'm at a bit of a loss, and I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks!