Found the below in faq regarding relay connector rebuild.
I am a bit confused on when I put the JB Weld into the connector body. I was thinking I should put it in with the wires in the body to hold them in place, but the last sentence below indicates the wires being put thru the body after the JB has dried. How would the wires get though?
Thanks for your help.

[Lewis King] After a prolonged diagnosis procedure ensuing from a no-start situation, I found the root-cause to be rotted
insulation around the inside connectors to my Radio Suppression relay (relay
p/n 3544322 I pursued an alternative solution that was cheap. The repair is
weather tight and did not entail cutting/crimping in new wires or
soldering. As the photo shows, I used aquatic tank AirLine tubing procured from a pet supply store (Petco SKU 1446614-8FT for $5 USD). The inner diameter is just right to hold the female connectors yet small enough to make a tight fit around the base of relay pins (what found at local hardware stores was too big). The hose was cut to approximately 1-1/4inch length to fit lengthwise inside the connector body. The 1/8 inch of gap between the female connector and tube end seals around the
base of the relay pins when connected/ making the weather seal. The aft end was filled with JB Weld to seal and keep the wires from shifting inside the tubing.
After a day of drying, I routed the wires through the bottom end of the connector body and then reconnected each wire individually to the relay pins and then shoved relay onto the connector body.
All is well – car starts.
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"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (463K+), 92 245 (300K+), 90 740 (148k)