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The Vehicle:
o 1985 240 Volvo non-turbo
o LH-Jetronic 2.2
The Background:
o Recently purchased (12/00)
o Complete tune-up; new plugs, rotor, cap, plug wires
o Cleaned throttle body, new air filter
o New intake manifold gasket, new fuel injector seals
o Cleaned and replaced all fuses in fuse block
o Rewired engine compartment wiring harness – careful splicing of bad wiring.
o Cleaned and dielectric greased all connectors/plugs
After the above, car started everytime, ran great, except for occasional complete cut-out of power during cruse and acceleration – but never completely killed engine – always idled, and would resume power after 5-10 seconds.
Diagnosed above cut-out problem as bad (not running) in-tank fuel pump – checked by removing pump and testing on bench (no workie); replaced in-tank fuel pump.
Then, car started immediately, and ran for 5 minutes; turned off ignition, and then car would not restart. Strong gas smell, but no leaks present.
The Ongoing Diagnosis:
o While cranking engine: no spark at pulled and grounded plug; no spark at coil wire
o Battery voltage at #15 terminal on coil; same for terminal #1
o Good ground at #10 at ignition control box
o Battery voltage at #2 at ignition control box
o Pulled connector at distributor; jumped B and C, and no spark at grounded spark plug (the manuals mention a "calibrated ignition tester" – is this really necessary)?
o Checked for battery voltage at A terminal on distributor connector – no voltage – (but I swear I got battery voltage there a couple of days ago…).
o Checked continuity between A terminal on distributor connector and end of wire into ignition control box - OK
o Replaced ignition control box with known good unit – no change…
o Checked coil resistance – OK
o With ignition switch ON, grounded terminals B and C on distributor connector – no spark at grounded spark plug, but injectors fire for 1 second; same test, and good spark from coil wire and injectors fire for 1 second…
o Replaced fuel pump relay with brand-new unit – no change…
o Hooked up Volvo fuel pressure gauge; jumped terminals #30 and #87 at fuel pump relay – get 2.5 Bar pressure…
o Checked for voltage at in-tank fuel pump connector in trunk – good battery voltage…
Further Background:
o Previous Owner had new main fuel pump, fuel regulator, and fuel filter replaced within 1000 miles of present…
I’m at a bit of a quandary on this diagnosis – probably a case of being too close to the case, and I’m not seeing something, or not testing in the right sequence… HELP!!!
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