Gord --

Here's a my (butcher's) approach:

1. Remove the right side kick panel.
   
   
2. Note the flat side of the duct -- mark or scribe a line across it (for alignment during reassembly).
   
   
3. Install the smallest diameter cutting tool in your Dremel.
   
   
4. Cut an access hole as large as possible 7" or more in diameter. Roughly circular, cut where the ducts branch away from the main housing.
   
   
5. Yes, there'll be plastic chips everywhere. Remove the piece, and note the impeller inside. Mark it "R" (the right and left impellers look identical, but are different).
   
   
6. Remove that stupid little clip from the motor shaft. As you're prying and cursing, ALSO keep your fingers on it -- like kids, they love freedom, and will head south quickly.
   
   
7. Pull the impeller off the shaft. Usually it's rusted on, so a few drops of WD-40 help. I turn on the motor and let the shaft spin inside the impeller -- it spins off quickly.
   
   
8. Repeat the marking, cutting, and impellerectomy on the left side.
   
   
9. Looking in the left side, note that the motor is secured by a screw through each of three legs. Also note that there is a plastic "Venturi" throat that prevents those legs from passing. With the Dremel, cut either three slots, or cut the Venturi out. (I prefer the three slots.)
   
   
10. Pull the center console back slightly, allowing access to the motor switch. Unplug the red wire. Tape it to a 6' piece of scrap "leader" wire (you'll thank me later.).
    
    
11. Go back to the right side, and locate the
    
12. Go back to the left side. Carefully stick a large Phillips screwdriver in and remove each of the three screws.
    
    
13. Removing the screws successfully is worth thinking about -- because when you drop them, they're gone, gone, gone. I stuff a rag down the bottom vent (remove it later) AND use a magnetized screwdriver.
    
    
14. Carefully pull the motor out. You may need to trim the three slots. You'll need to push the resistor aside (or remove it for repair/replacement). Now, who will ask how to repair a resistor?
    
    
15. If you think you need to also pull the resistor, then unplug its harness from the blower speed switch, attach a 6' leader to the bundle, and pull it out.
    
    
16. You'll have to also pop the rubber grommet out of the bottom of the housing -- it's easy.
    
    
17. Perform whatever magic is needed to the motor and/or resistor.
    
    
18. To reassemble, follow these steps backwards. Obviously, the wire "leaders" are used to pull the power wires back through the housing, and up through the rat's nest to the switch.
    
    
19. Don't worry about replacing the three slots. The round sidepieces can be duct-taped in place (lasts about 3 months before the adhesive dries and the tape fails). The alignment scribes are essential unless you cut perfect circles.
    
    
20. You can reattach the side with metal brackets.
    
    
21. I "tack" them in place with duct tape and apply RTV generously all over the seam. Messy, stinky, effective. The next day I remove the temporary duct tape "splices" and RTV those spots.
    
    
22. Keep yours eyes closed and/or away from the vents when you first turn the blower on -- black chips everywhere! Vacuum up.