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Brad --
If you lose spark, the fuel pump relay automatically cuts out the fuel supply. Anyway, you commented that it "bogged down" -- so obviously it was still running (thus still had spark) during the time it was getting richer and richer.
My reaction is to check these items: - Air Mass Meter (AMM). Do this by unplugging (ignition OFF) and starting the car. If the AMM has failed, your engine should start and run OK at low speeds. This is called the "limp home" mode. Remember to unplug/plug the harness only with the key OFF or you run the risk of damaging a possibly good part.
- Fuel pressure regulator. These fail and almost always increase fuel pressure, flooding the engine. A second mode of failure can send raw gas directly into the engine through the small vacuum line. A third failure mode is the small vacuum line splitting or falling off, which tells the regulator to increase the pressure, flooding the engine.
- The FI temperature sensor and/or connections. This sensor measures the engine temp and tells the electronic control unit (ecu) to adjust mixture accordingly. A cold engine needs more fuel. A high resistance, open sensor, bad connection, or broken wire can simulate an engine at about minus 40 degrees, so the ecu will flood the engine.
Before jumping into diagnosis, remember to clear the fuel out of the cylinders, and clean and dry the plugs (or replace). Otherwise, you may solve the problem but still have flooded plugs and cylinders.
Also, sometimes when you flood an engine, you can lose compression and the engine won't fire. If the compression pressure is below about 100-120 pounds, squirt a tablespoon of oil into cylinder.
Finally, the oil is probably loaded with gas. After the problem is solved, remember to change the oil and filter.
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