ICQ>

Val,

First go and get a oil drain pan, the plastic jug type that has the funnel stored in the side and the funnel screws onto the filler neck. It will clear the engine pan and or side rails easily when you slide it under.

I use a Trucraft 24mm wrench on the drain plug -12" long, works fine-has enuff lkength for leverage if the last jerk used a air gun ti torque the dran plug up. (Don't laugh I have seen the Morons...excuse me "Employees" at a Major Oil Change firm...the one that has a "J" in the name - actually use an AIR GUN to install the drain plug on a Chrysler Mini Van!!! (Stupidity never ceases to amaze me!)

The Mechanic sleeve and glove are a GODSEND!!! Kevalr has much better heat resistance that flesh!! Ask me how I know this! My manifold looks like Hanibal Lechters BBQ grille!

I use 2 jacks to raise the car 3 inches-the wheels are still on te ground-I just tae up some of the shock/spreing room. Set the brake firmly and there shoulkd be no worries... I use the stock 240 jack and a spare Bilstien Wagon jack I "glommed" from a junque yard a few eons ago...

Fill the new filter with 1/2 quart of oil before installation and dip your finger into the jug and do a few rounds on the gasket just to keep the bad kharma away...

The copper washer will last 2 years minimum, at least thats the lkast time I changed mine cause Swedish Classics was too cheap to send a set of new coppewr washers with the 2 dozen Mann filters I bought! ( SC-It's too late now-I buy EVERYTHING at RPR or Trollhatten).

Be ECO FRIENDLY and keep a bag of Oil Dry-made from Corn husks- in your trunk in case of a spill-keeps the neighbors and the EPA happy and can be used as a starter for BBQ and Outside fires in the fall! (Safety Kleen recycles their used product as a fuel for wood heated boilers and the like!). I also have had to use it to help clean up after a Glycol Spill and all that Good Sam stuff!