ICQ>

The turbo + kit on the 700s varies acording to the year and the specific model of injection system. However, in order for it to work, everything else must be working properly. There are several critical items to check. The knock sensor system should be good. This means that there should not be any false knock signals as might come from soft motor mounts allowing bumping and banging, loose or broken exhaust clamps - particularly at the bell housing, etc. Also, the knock sensor itself must not be too tightly torqued - makes it too sensitive.

Next, check the throttle body - must be immaculately clean for optimum operation - pay particular attention to the bore and the edges of the throttle plate. Next, ensure that the throttle plate opens EXACTLY parallel to the bore at full throttle. If it doesn't, check all linkage for proper adjustment, make sure nothing is interfering with pedal (floor mats?). If everything OK, and plate doesn't open fully, then lever must be bent slightly away from the throttle body - just a very litle bit at a time and check.

Don't forget to check your intake plumbing - air filter, hoses, intake air preheat thermostat (thermostat stuck open allows hot air into system which will reduce performance, increase tendency for knock, and lead to early AMM failure).

Check fuel pressure regulator AND the vacuum line going to it. Cracked or leaking vacuum line leads to lean condition under boost = knock and causes engine to back off timing. By the way - once timing reaches maximum retard from knock system, + kit is disabled as additional protection measure.

Of course, you need to check for any exhaust (cat) obstruction and ensure you are using premium gas. You will also not get best performance on hot days, etc.

When everything is working right, boost should go up to about 4:00 or 4:30 position at full throttle and about 4500 rpm.