ICQ>

I'm probably flogging a dead horse here, but I DID remove my "idle air valve" before I drained my intercooler. It IS a pain in the $#@&! (for about 20 minutes) as your back gets sore hunckering over the intake manifold, but it can be done. I beleive you need a small 10mm box wrench to reach the 3 bolts securing the idle air valve assembly from under the intake manifold. you will also disconnect the wire plug, then just lift the whole assembly out. I cleaned mine with carb cleaner, filled it up with the stuff, plugged the ends of the valve, and shook. (You can hear a "clacking" sound inside when you do this). The first time I dumped the carb cleaner out of the valve... can you say BLACK? I did thgis a few more times, until "clean" carb cleaner came out. Also cleaned the whole thing up, too. I WAS experiencing an idle problem: after acceleration, my idle would "dip" sometimes all the way to 500 RPM, causing the engine to stall occasionally. After cleaning the valve, the ildle only occasionally drops to 750 RPM or so, after accelerating and then taking my foot suddenly off the throttle, and I can hardly notice it now. WOW! I did not know those valves cost so much! Great thing about Volvos; a lot of stuff the "dealer" says must be replaced can just be "cleaned out" or "repaired".

Keep on "Volvo-ing",

Ted (Bundy) Y.