Back to the 'doom' subject, I am sure I am in the "half a**" category in my campaign to save my $500(+) Volvo.

Yes, we've got our share of rust "she" (the Volva) and I, but I've come up with various strategies to 'save' an old 2wd Toy. truck for getting through several years of obsolescence. I eventually failed on the truck as I neglected the infamous side weep holes in the frame. (It still is drivable just barely but not inspectable.. and is a 'storage shed' ... anyone want it for $200 .. has got good engine and nice cap?)

One was using aluminum painted coil stock with rivets and/or metal screws (the Toyota wasn't pretty but that held it from the junk yard 3 or 4 years..) I am using the black coil stock over holes underneigh the Volvo. And the couple holes in the 'sill' underdoors I've used a thicker sheet of Alum. with a backing of epoxy and fabric .. then riveted the sandwich to primed ground-down surfaces around hole. Let it set for a day or so, sanded the rivets and edges, "bondo-ed" and sanded and painted the black over it and it looks and feels more solid than pristine steel areas.

I am told again and again that Alum. and steel don't mix... however, I have a thick epoxy barrier between the two. I do this for the reason I see so many 'weld' repairs rusting out very quickly as especially Toyota trucks used 'recycled' steel . Volvo probably didn't.. but my other reason: no welding equip. no experience .... and the heat and torch can damage so many "collateral" victims... wireing, etc.

Yes, my floors have got holes, but taking out the carpet (at least on the edges of the floor), grinding off the looser rust and recoating with 3 coats of "converter", sanding and patching with epoxy (2 part boat stuff) with fiberglass cloth seems like a valid solution... after all it's used in repairing of Salt Water Boats!!! With the aluminum sheeting applied underneigh(again with the epoxy and fiber sandwich 'filling' I think I can keep the Volvo alive for at least a couple of years.... dontcha think?????) The Rubberized Coating I only use mainly to hide screws and rivets.... and edges of alum. patchs... and yes I think necessary to keep WheelWells in shape (due to stone throws by tires)

Thank goodness, my wheelwells and rear stow areas are rustfree. And gas tank!!! another reason my toyota died. My local mechanic says floors are less a worry than those areas and esp. frame jack pads and bars. Floors can be relatively easily fixed in the Volvo it seems. (at least using my "half-a**" methods...)

Someone had an excellent web page here about fixing the Floor bds. with POR 15. Which after my short term fix I may attempt next spring... (so far I've avoided 'gutting' the interior as I don't have the time....)

Sorry, I can't get into welding as I don't have a garage, nor the inclination ..... but someday maybe I'll will ... when I get an old Classic 1800 perhaps???