I am reposting this to the 200 series board as I accidently posted it under ALL'

Sorry....

Ok, I got home from work today to continue on with my investigation into my no-start situation on my girlfriends '81 240DL.

A little background for any new readers. To those who have been responding then I say thank you and please stay with me on this as your assistance has been invaluable.

As I said yesterday, I was able to "hot wire" the cold-start injector and I held it for about 10 seconds and the car then started right up. I don't think it ever worked and I am in the process of troubleshooting the thermal timer switch to the cold start valve.

I originaly had a faulty main pump (working current draw was around 2 Amps) and I replaced it and it working current is about 8 Amps.

I have strong pressure at the cold start injector but nothing coming out of the fuel injectors.

I removed the rubber "hose" underneath the throttle body and was able to see the fuel air flow flap that is used to control the fuel pressure to the injectors.

I then pressurized the system and lifted up on the air flow "flap" to see if any fuel would flow out of the injector hose "port" on the fuel disributor. (I had previously removed the fuel line from the fuel distributor on cylinder number one and I didn't see what I thought would be the proper pressure for the injectors although some fuel did come out of the open port and none out of the injectors.

Does anyone know that if I manually pressurized the system (by shorting fuse 7 to 5) and lifted on the air flow "flap" would there be sufficient pressure to fire the injectors while not acutally cranking the engine?

I'm thinking that the control pressure regulator may have to be energized as during cranking (actually I think it is pulse modulated) to see a significant pressure to the injectors.

But a curious thing happend while I was troublshooting this animal and trying to decide if I needed to pull the intake to actually get access to the fuel regulator to pull it and check it out, try to fix it, or at least replace it with another. While looking at what had to be disconnected on the intake manifold I noticed that the inlet hose from the idle control valve underneath the intake manifold was disconnected and laying down below the intake.

I'm thinking, "Did I knock this loose as I was removing the air "hose" from beneath the intake to the air flow flap module. And If I didn't and it had actually come loose originally when I was driving down the road would that have caused the failure that I experienced.

My therory is that if this hose fell off while driving then the air into the intake would have come into the manifold through this opening and the air flow flap would have shut and cut off the fuel flow to the injectors since there would be insufficient airflow through the flap to lift it up to meter the fuel to the injectors.

So now comes the delima: Do I reconnect everything, reconnect the idle control hose to where it is supposed to go and see what happens (which is probably what I'll do) and then if it doesn't work I'll begin to disassemble the intake and start to trouble shoot the fuel distributor OR do I assume that the fuel distributor is faulty and begin the disassebly proccess.

Does anyone know what kind of pressure should be coming out of the fuel distributor to the injectors when the system is pressurized, but not being cranked, and the flap is lifted in the air flow sensor module?

I would love to think that the failure was a result of the hose coming loose from underneath the intake and I have looked at it very closely to see if I think I may have knocked it loose while removeing the air hose from underneath the intake and I really don't think I did (but I guess I could have while wrestling with it to get it out of there, but again, I don't think so.)

Any insight to the fuel pressure regualtor and my questions would be greatly apprecaited.

Thanks to all.

Rick B.