If your 960 is like mine, then the A/C condenser is held by bolted through steel plates touching the aluminum of the condenser which will corrode and leak refrigerant and PAG oil. This can ruin your compressor too and send debris through components and lines that will prove difficult or impossible to flush successfully before putting in a new compressor and condenser. BTW, a ScanTech (Avantia) direct fit aftermarket condenser is $175 from www.fcpgroton.com and a Volvo one is $439 from www.swedishengineering.com both have them in stock. A new (not remanufactured) Sanden SD7H15 compressor is $320 from FCPGroton. Locally, I was quoted $995 (yes, $995) sight unseen so I do not know whether it was new or remanufactured. An accumulator will cost you $50 from FCGroton and maybe a couple of dollars more from Swedish Engineering. A Mastercool flush gun is $43 and flushing solvent is $20 a bottle from www.ackits.com You will need shop air to use those. The Airsept kit with screens to keep debris in the system from getting into your new compressor costs $67 from www.jcsonlinetoolshed.com

To save all the trouble and expense of an A/C overhaul after your condenser corrodes and leaks, see if it is held by bolted through steel plates at the bottom both right and left sides. If so, study 700/900 FAQ, Volvo factory manuals or at least ALLDATA CD ($20). Consult with those at Brickboard that know, like Chris Herbst. Then, as soon as you have warm weather, evacuate your A/C, raise the front of the car, remove the air guide (not engine pan) and front grille. Disconnect and mark or identify the three conectors at the bottom of the condenser on the passenger side. Unbolt the lines in and out of the condenser. Cap or even cover with tape those lines to keep air from entering the system. Undo the clamps that hold the radiator in place, push the condenser up from its moorings and pull it out from under the car. Undo the screws that hold those plates at the bottom of the condenser and put plastic or rubber plates between the steel plates and the condenser to keep metal to metal contact between steel and aluminum. Perhaps the plastic like shims that come with Volvo rear brake pads will do the trick. Perhaps this is a good time to flush that condenser before you put it back in the car. While you are under the car, you may want to remove the engine pan and take out the A/C compressor to flush it and refill it with fresh oil. Sanden specifies Sanden SP-20 oil (8.45 ounces), but I think this is PAG 100 oil, perhaps with additives. Eight ounces of PAG 100 should do in a pinch to refill the compressor. Taking the compressor out is not bad if done from under the car. If possible, put in an Airsept screen in the suction line at the compressor. Airsept has illustrated instructions at its website. Check and replace the orifice valve in the high pressure line connection on the passenger side, not at the evaporator connection. Perhaps a variable orifice valve in called for, but I get 32-34 degrees Farenheit air at the vents with the factory orifice valve. Change the accumulator if it has been there for several years or many miles or lines were left open more than ten minutes so air got in. Otherwise, Volvo says it can be changed every second or third time you open the A/C lines. Put in at every connection you open brand new R134 O rings (yellow, not black) lubricated with PAG oil. Draw a vacuum of 27-30 inches of mercury for at least an hour. Check the system maintain that vacuum after you turn off the vacuum pump. If you use Johnsen's R134 refrigerant in liquid form (you turn the can upside down rather than hold it upright like with Dupont Sava R134) preferably with UV dye, the vaccum in the system you suck in a car or two right away. As soon as you start the engine, suction from the compressor will suck a third can. That is 36 ounces rather than the 32 ounces called for the A/C on the 960. That works for me, but I remember Tom Irwin recommends a small food scale to put in exactly 32 ounces of R134.

If you have to change the condenser, I found the direct fit aftermarket one
from FCPGroton has the advantage over the condenser that was in the car (Volvo?) of no steel plates against the aluminum. Otherwise, that aftermarket condenser is a bit shorter top to bottom than the one that was in the car, with round rather than flat tubing. I cannot compare capacity (BTU) between the two condensers, but so far that aftermarket unit gives me 32-34 degrees Farenheit air at the vents in the tropics!