I wanted to keep my fellow Brickboarders informed of the recent work I've done on my '89 740 Turbo Wagon with 110K miles, and thank you for all your help and guidance.

1) Sway Bars Links - replaced both sides, including top and bottom bushings.
Cost: $12.50 each. Source: FCP Groton.
Time to replace: about 40 min/side
Job difficulty: easy
Things to look out for: make sure you change both sides, and that you unbolt BOTH sides before attempting to lift the sway bar over the end links. ALWAYS change bushings as well.

2) Balljoints - replaced both sides.
Cost: $13.50 each, made by TRW, source: FCP Groton
Time to replace: about 1 1/4 hour each side (for first timers like me)
Job difficulty: easy/medium
Things to look out for: Don't make the same mistake I did and rely only on PB Blaster and a hammer to disconnect the ball joint from the control arm. You ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY need a ball joint separator, a.k.a. pickle fork. I borrowed one from Autozone for free. After unbolting the bottom nut and removing the cotter pin, and after slighly loosening the two bolts that hold the ball joint to the strut (but not removing them), you place the pickle fork right on top of the control arm. Find a sweet spot between control arm and those two bolts that are still there, and make sure you don't damage the back of your breaking system, and then WHACK AWAY. If you've used PB Blaster and you found a good spot for the fork, the ball joint should eventually pop out. Then, remove the two remaining bolts, push down the control arm with your hand, and take out the ball joint. To reinstall, first attach the new ball joint to the strut with two new bolts (use anti-locking compound), then insert ball joint bottom into control arm. Tighten nuts according to specs. Get an arm massage and a cold beer.

3) Radius Rod Bushings - replaced both sides.
Cost: $11 each side, made by Scan-Tech (do I hear moaning? :o) ), source: FCP Groton
Time to replace: about 1 hour each side (for first timers like me)
Job difficulty: easy/medium
Things to look out for: Make sure you remove the old bushings completely. Mine were completely and thoroughly shot. The rubber was mostly gone, and I spent about 30 min on one side trying to remove the remaining steel tube of the old bushings that was rusted onto my radius rod. Make sure you get rid of ALL traces of the old bushing. Also, you need to unbold the back of the radius arm from the body of your car and remove the entire radius rod in order to do this procedure. Not a big deal - you need a 22mm socket and a 15 mm (?) socket as counter for the back large bolt. Retighten all nuts to spec only once the car has settled down on its wheels and the suspension can sit into the new bushings.

When all was done, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The car doesn't vibrate anymore at highway speed, cornering is smoother, no more 'clunks' felt while driving over rough surfaces. It's a new experience.

I was initially apprehensive to do this job, but this is definitely DIY as long as you have the right tools. Get a good, solid 1/2" metric regular and deep socket set, breaker bar, PB Blaster, and the pickle fork. Work slowly and carefully.

Good luck!!