Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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H O T ! ! ! overheating modified B20 120-130

Okay, here goes...

In my 1967 122s there happens to be a B20 with a Weber DGV and the FI head. It's an amazing car, but has been overheating lately. It had always run pretty hot (near the "M" in "T E M P" on the gauge), but now it's getting into the red. I'm not losing any coolant, I replaced the thermostat (I'm typing very slowly because of that; when I stole the thermo out of my 145 it bit me and now I have a big bandage on my middle finger which is nice because my horn doesn't work and the finger is easier to spot now), replaced the radiator, checked belt tension, set the timing, all to no avail. After it warms up (albeit quickly) it continues to get hotter. In neutral at certain RPMs it will briefly go down in temperature, then steadily climb back up. turning on the heater doesn't seem to help (but it sure makes ME hot). Today I watched the gauge more than the road. I suspect several things:

Hose Routing: The hoses are routed thusly (and is this correct?): The lower radiator hose goes into the water pump, out the side and straight to the Weber's intake manifold (the pipe that is supposed to run along the block had been removed), through the manifold and to the lower heater control valve (from a 140) inlet pipe, out the upper control valve pipe into the upper heater core inlet, out the heater and into the back of the block. If the routing is correct (and I have my reservations about bypassing the pipe along the block), should I suspect the hoses are crimped too much? The first one needs to jog around the exhaust manifold from the water pump to the Weber and may be slightly restricted, same goes for the hose after the Weber to the heater control valve.

The heater control valve is from a 140. Does this present a problem? The copper tubes are oriented in slightly different manner to account for the 140's vertical placement on the firewall, but are the inlet and outlet pipes of the
same orientation as the 122 (bottom = in, top = out)? ALSO, the thermocouple tube/wire thing busted off at the control valve when I was trying to wrestle the end of the thing into the heater box. Whoops! Would this affect the operating temp? What the heck DOES it affect anyway?

What else... uh..., Oh! The water pump. It isn't making any weird noises or anything, but could that be the fault? What are some of the symptoms of a doggy pump, and can I test it without pulling it off?

Timing. I set the timing to 10 BTDC. Do the mods I made affect the timing specs? If so, how can I determine what the timing should be? And when they say "advanced" does this translate to reading above 10 or below? If my timing's retarded, at least I'm not the only one.

Cheers!

Ben






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New H O T ! ! ! overheating modified B20 [120-130]
posted by  signalius  on Sat May 24 20:38 CST 2003 >


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