Thanks to all those that replied to my brakes and OD button question.
After one busted knuckle and a trip to the store to buy a box end 17mm wrench the master cyl. is replaced and the brakes work as they should. You can get to the nut
that holds the MS to the brake booster with a socket on the engine side only. It requires a wrench on the fender side due to clearance..or lack of. I suctioned the
fluid out of the reservour, disconnected the brake lines and plugged the holes with the plastic plugs from the new one. Then I pulled the MS off the booster. I reused the old rez but had to clean it our real well as it had gunk in it which I assume was from the old seals going away...black gunk. FYI the rez pulls off the MS with some resistance but there is no mech fastner to remove.. it is a press fit with a "ledge" that captures in the MS seal. Clean rez. install on bench (with plugs in the brake line outlets reinstalled). fill rez and work the piston to prime. once you see no more bubbles when the piston is depressed put the cap on the rez and bolt it on the booster... pop the plastic plug and install brake line. Have some plastic on the fender and some rags. You will loose a some brake fluid. Once the brake lines are on hose the fender with water pretty well as brake fluid eats paint. Now on to the the OD problem! I will pull the relay behind the glove box
liner and check the traces on the ckt board as advised.. maybe do some resoldering and see if that cures the intermittent OD function... yahoo!
--
vw bus site w/ Volvo section - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html