I've already posted this on the turbobricks forum, but since it's not really a performance issue I'm dealing with, hopefully people here will be able to help.

I recently put a B230FT 530 head on my B23F engine, at the same time adding a turbo manifold and turbo from a 760 (water cooled). All of the oil lines are plumbed to and from the turbo, with a hole in the block for drainage and a flange to hold the oil return line onto the block. Coolant lines have not yet been run, but will be if I can ever get the engine started again.

After the swap, I put on a new timing belt (timing is correct, trust me, I've quadruple checked), put in new plugs (NGK BPR7ES gapped to 0.032), and put in a new 180 degree thermostat.

Unfortunately, now the engine refuses to start. I can get it to crank until my heart's content, but it just refuses to run on it's own. I've used a timing light and I know that all of the plugs are firing during the crank(and #1 is firing when it's supposed to), and I jumped terminals 5 and 7 in the fuse box to get the fuel pump running. I can hear the fuel flowing and can feel it in the fuel rail, but I'm just not getting any fuel through the injectors. I just replaced the FPR yesterday to no avail, although it does look nice and shiny in the engine compartment, if that's any consolation.

The way I know the fuel is the problem is because I hooked a long heater hose to the idle air port on the intake and sprayed in air intake cleaner while I cranked the engine, and I could get it to run just fine until I stopped spraying.

The only questionable things are two wires, a white one and a black one, that used to plug into the alternator and the oil pressure idiot light sender on the block and are not connected right now, and two wires that run with the alternator harness, a black and a red, both 14 gauge wires that I don't believe were ever connected to anything.

Would the white and/or black wires that used to plug into the alternator and oil pressure idiot light sender both prevent the car from starting if they were not plugged in?

Or would the red and black wires that are in the alternator harness that never appeared to be connected to anything be the culprits?

One more thing to note, I used the coolant temperature sensor (towards the back of the head, under the intake) from the B23F head I had, and I don't currently have anything plugged into the sensor towards the front of the head under the intake (not the knock sensor that's in the block, I believe this is a sensor for the coolant temperature gauge on the dash).

Any help would be extremely appreciated.

Pictures of what I've done can be found here:

http://www.pbase.com/fullup1/