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I have a 1988 760 with a 2.3L tic with LH 2.2. I put some brown top fuel injectors (from '87 ford thunderbird turbo) in recently. They are rougly 20% bigger than stock After that my a/f gauge had me always running rich. Time to adjust the AMM! So I rigged up a test light like the volvo unit for the CO test point. First attempt ended up staying on all the time because of too much resistance(didn't realize RS leds had integrated resistors) Second attempt should be ok! led light with 680ohm resistor and seven 10ohm resistors = 750ohms. This light only blinks when the car is warming up. Blinks in long intervals too. Light on=rich/light off=lean. When the car warms up it just stays on all the time.
Because the first test light didn't work I tuned the AMM with my a/f gauge. Got it so it reads just like the 357 injectors majority of the time. It loops at idle and goes rich in boost. Loops at 2.5k rpms like it should. etc... But the 2nd working test light still doesn't blink? Why is this? No matter where I turn the AMM adjustment knob... nothing. When I unplug the AMM it runs like crap so I know the AMM is good. Turning the knob clockwise makes the a/f gauge read rich and turning it counter-clockwise makes it lean. Is there something I'm missing? Another CO test point I can use(maybe mine is wrong or bad)? Should I try another AMM? Something wrong with my adjustment knob? Is there anyway to zero the AMM or set it back to stock so I can adjust it from that?
Performance wise the car pulls much harder! Especially up top. Boost comes faster and 7psi feels like 10psi did. So far no negative side effects and problems with them. I'd just like to know if getting the CO test light to blink is hopeless w/bigger injectors or something I should keep trying to do? And how should I go about it?
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1988 760Tic - electric fan, HD radiator, boost gauge, a/f gauge, remote start, NGK plugs, MBC@10psi - 157,800 1966 M-B 230 sedan - 98,000 1982 Rx-7 - 201,000
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