Greetings!
My car crapped out as I was getting on the Brooklyn Bridge at rush hour this past Wednesday about an hour into evening rush (every bit as enjoyable as you might imagine... right where two ramps meet). No indications of abnormality before shutdown other than flicker of oil light. A week ago, I put in an oil conditioner to slow leakage and make cold starts less severe on engine wear. A few days later, the oil light started to glow intermittently for a few moments then it went back off and stayed off. I checked and topped off oil later in the week and engine should have sufficient oil (I'm going to check as soon as I post this). As the engine would turn over when it first died, and I changed wires, dist. cap & rotor, and ignition coil in the fall, I suspected the fuel pump. Since the car has been towed home, I've checked a few things out. The fuel injector relay is fine and clicks when key is first turned on. The main fuel pump runs for a second when that happens. I couldn't determine if it is pumping when the engine is turning over though.
I've changed the flywheel sensor (rpm sensor?) within the past 10K miles.
There is spark at the coil but not to the plugs. there is no motion when I look into the valve cover with oil cap removed and turn over engine. Fan and pulleys rotate, engine sounds very odd... strong vacuum-like, steady, scratchy rotation sound instead of pulsing pistons raising and lowering sounds. I am completely unfamilair with cam shaft or seized engines. Is the rotor not spinning or could there pleasepleaseplease be another reason why the spark isn't being distributed.
While I'm asking,
I noticed as I was checking out the pump and filter that there is a cable which runs along side of the drive shaft and goes up into the car next to the ... coupling? (universal joint type thingie part of the drive shaft... I hate to get all tecknickle on ya). On my car that cable's kinda broke and hanging sorta... the levers and such which go into the side of the oil pan and further up by the transmission appear to not be able to be actuated by that cable any more. Any ideas what the heck I'm talking about (because I sure don't!).
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Wayne