So by special request I'm gonna try and make up a post on my amplifier ignition swap. I did this because I was having lots to problems with my Chrysler ignition system. I had a bouncing tachometer and my timing was moving about 5 degrees by its self at idle and untop of that I had some hesitation problems.
81-84 turbo 240 cars come with a computerless amplifier system that its rather kinda old fashioned technology. The diagram of it is avliable in all of the tech manuals. So I started by finding a used distributor. This was rather difficult since I went to 3 junk yards claiming to have the right distributor and turns out they didn't, they all had the same one I had. But finally I got one from some junk yard in Indiana. It cost me $90 shipped. But you can also get them from www.partsamerica.com rebuild for $156 remanufactured. But that has a $40 core charge I believe. Then I needed the ampifier, these are some times called the powerstage. You can get them out of a lotta older Euro cars. I found mine in a BMW 325 or some thing. Make sure when you find one you take the whole harness out. Places to look are Saabs Volkswagens BMW Mercedes and of course Volvos 81-84 turbo and 78-81non turbo I believe. Some of the 81-82 came with the Chrysler ignition I've been told. But remember you need to get the harness. I dont really konw how to explain how you'd wire it up with out it. I"m sure you can get it from Volvo for the cost of your first born child.
If you get the harness but not the amplifier they are avliable from www.fcpgroton.com for $65 if I remember correctly. This was the case with all of the volvos in my local yard. Then you need a heat sink so the amplifier doesn't burn out on you. I used a Pentium 2 heat sink. The predrilled holes matched up with in less then .1 millimeters. I guess you could get one from a used computer parts store for like $5 or less. I just had some laying around. Make sure you use heat conductive gel. New amp.s will come with it and used ones you could get the gel at a computer store and maybe a car store. Then I maounted it using cable ties to the frame right behind the air cleaner next to the battery. When I ran the pick up wires to the distributor I ran them along the radiator hose to keep them away from the coil wires. The BMW wiring harness wire colors dont match the colors of the wiring diagram for the Volvo but the pin numbers did so I was able to wire up the amplifier to the coil with the help of the diagram in my Haynes manual. Its in chapter 5 some where in the first 10 pages. Sorry for the unexactness but I don't have any of my stuff with me. Then the main ground for the amp. I connected to the coil holder with one of its securing screws. Installing the distributor was pretty strait forward except getting the old one out took some doing. You have to make sure to line up the new rotor with the old one. You don't need to be exact but close to the same spot. When you retime the ignition you need to disconnect the vacume and plug it and it should be 7 degrees at 800rpm its set to Canadian specs given in the haynes because the canadian cars of the same years came with the amp. ignition.
The first time I started the car it ran like normal and I got the timing dialed in. When I went to test drive it I got a lot of knocking but that was because I set it to the wrong timing specs. The ones used for the computer ignition. So when I set it correctly the knock went away except at full throttle on the highway. But its related to other problems in my fuel system I think. So I went out and bought a MSD adjustable timing control that solved my problem. But I don't recommend this since its insanely expesensive and complicated. I think since me ditributor is off of a b21f with a compression of like 9.3:1 and my engine has 10.3:1 the timing curve is different. The timing curve is controled by a set of springs inside the distributor. There may be a different spring for the high compression of the Canadian engines. Its worth checking. Just tell your dealer you have a B23E the E is important. And ask if it uses a different spring then the 81 B21f. My distrubutor was taken from a B21F I know for a fact. But if there is a different spring for each engine it'd be a lot cheaper then and adjustable timing control. The process of putting new springs in the distributor is rather easy but you need to get a set of circlip pliers. You need to remove the pick up coil so while its out check it with and ohm meter. The resistance should be 900-1200ohms. And if its bad it'll save you a lot of work. They cost $25 from www.partsamerica.com

If any one wants to try this make sure you know what your doing and if needed you can ask me more questions. But if you don't know what your doing you could just destroy your engine.