Car pulls lightly to left. I wanted to add a touch more positive caster to left side, since steering is quite light anyhow, to experimentally correct the pull. Found crumpled evidence of a front left hit, sometime in history.

Since the ball joint loosened easily, saving some effort, and I had the parts, I decided bushing replacement was in order. Might have been necessary, hard to say, but it's done now. Trouble was, Haynes manual only showed how to REMOVE the bushings in the upper a-arms. The "washer" method is OK for removal of the bushings, but use a thick washer. Replacement is ignored, as is the necessity of a press. Green book shows how, using special tool SVO2990 or some such thing. The second bushing has to be pressed in AROUND the shaft, making backing the arm for support somewhat impossible.

After puzzling on it, and trying to remember Phil S.'s tech archive page, I found the solution. Also it was late and necessity as they say...

I have a "3 in 1" ball joint removal tool, the chinese ones sold on ebay. Believe me I feel guilty about getting these tools this cheap, but that's another issue, for the opinions forum.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2481352950

I cut a 1/2" slot through the end of the cast iron c-clamp press-hole with a metal blade in a sabre saw (would not have done that to a MAC or Snap-on). It didn't seem to give up any significant amount of the strength of the piece. The slot went over the shaft, and the bushing happened to fit in the hole. Nicely duplicates Volvo special tool function.

Pushed the bushing in without any problem or stress on the a-arm.

Still kind of bugs me the amount of metal sawing I have to do. Maybe a cutoff bandsaw, someday.

Now for the caster...
--
'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'