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Hiya folks!
My 1st brick! Longtime experienced VW owner, discovering the Swedish Way.
Particulars:
1987 244 B230F engine, 16x,xxx mi., ECU #'d 1346107, don't know which one this is, or if it's K or L jetronic, if either. Definitely not CIS though.
Owned for 4 months;
Compression acceptable- 130-140 psi;
Timing belt OK= cam lobes move;
Dist. cap ~80%, rotor good;
Spark at cap center and at least one spark plug connection- zapped to prove it :)
Batt. neg grnd. good; 25A fuse was dirty but wirebrushed clean, fuseblock loose from wheelwell but has good voltage both sides;
No voltage at #4 fuse either side, but starts & runs when fuses jumpered, Nothing when pump relay block jumpered as above (as per Haynes), relay removed.
Haven't examined wiring harness anywhere due to having no diagram (boo to secretive Volvo tech! :) ), and I dunno which wires where to check, if indeed i should. I understand the lore of 'biodegradable' insulation.
~4 gallons in tank; no fuel pump sounds without diagnostic fuse jumpering; haven't done 'hose in fuel filler sound check,' don't feel need since car runs as above.
Previous problems include refusal to start for no apparent reason when i was shopping the car, but started up after messing with 25A fuse connection. Good price, bought it anyway. :)
Lately, refusal to start on 1st turn of key, regardless of length of time cranking, but fired right away on 2nd try.
I searched the previous postings, and found lots of similar situations, but found no rocksolid solutions.
A common problem? Sort of, judging by posts.
Questions:
1- I'm not looking at a replacement brainbox, am I? Not exciting.
2- Is there an easy permanent or semi-permanent fix? I'll assume the fuse jumper isn't recommended for permanence.
3- Are there any online diagrams for no $$? I'm spoiled by the availability of diags for every vw in every language : )
4- I understand the 25A leads to pump relay, but with voltage at said fuse but not able to jumper relay block, am I looking for short in firewall? Or am I doing the test wrong? There's no apparent current drain with key off as car sat for a week w/o discharging.
5- Are there any component input issues that Haynes, Chilton, or myself am unaware of? With posts saying no voltage @ #4 fuse until input from another component, are there other such circumstances? What & how to check?
Help please! Thanks in advance!
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