All the symtoms I was getting (stalling, back firing, barely starting) indicated that the problems I was having were related to either the FP regulator or the AMM.
So I picked up a fuel regulator at the junkyard and attempted the change out. I got a big woooosh of pressure release when I took off the old one (and that worries me) and I can't seem to get the "new" one installed properly. That little seal keeps wanting to bulge out, and I'm wondering is fixing that a question of fiddling with the bracket that holds the FP regulator in place?
Now let's assume I get THAT installed properly. Do I have to recover that vacume somehow? If so, how?
And now let's assume that the above problem is fixed (sic), and it still won't start. I know you can test an AMM by unplugging it and then the engine will idle better, etc. But if it won't start... Is there a way to determine if an AMM is good by looking at it? I examined a couple pretty closely at the junk yard (the wrong type for my '89 245) and they had a circle inside with eliments. Would those somehow appear different if the AMM is no good?
I read in the archives that an AMM can be tested with a multimeter. I do have one, but have not yet developed the skills to use it in this application, I don't think. Can someone explain that to me?
I do have new plugs, rotor, cap and wires which I will install soon.
The only things I did which MIGHT be related to the source of this problem are clean the throttle body (with carb cleaner, toothbrush) and replace the knock sensor (due to uneven idle).
By the way, is it OK to use a 30 amp fuse in the fuel pump relay?
Any and all help is appreciated.