I retarded the timing too much. The car pings when it gets warm,(not really hot, but warm enough to lose power and ping) and i knew it would get warm because they don't have a really big fan to simulate higher speed driving. After the dyno, when i went to reset the timing, i noticed that it was at about 0... So i probably had a lot of power that i wasn't using because of the retarded timing... I bet i coulda pulled 90 hp if i advanced it a bit and they had some decent fans. I forgot to do some "water injection" beforehand to try and clean out the combustion chambers, i very well might have some carbon buildup in there that's causing the pinging at such stockish settings.

My car still has that intermittent no working problem. I thought it was the coil to distributor cap Magnecore wire, because on one end it has a rubber "boot" that was too big and so it doesn't sit well on either the distributor or the coil. The "boot" should be the same size on both ends of that wire, but for some reason (on BOTH of the wires i got from IPD for the coil-dizzy) there was a bigger end. So, i swapped on an old bosch wire and put it on there because i couldn't seem to find my old red "high perf." 7.5mm wire for it that i have been using for the past year. That got me all the way to the Dyno fine and dandy, but when i went to start it up in the dyno parking lot, it wouldn't start at all. Just a dead battery. So we jumped it, and i got it started and was holding it at 3k rpms and the tachometer signal would bounce around, and the engine would cut out for a second each time. This was the same problem i encountered last night when trying to go up to portland the first time. And then it died all the way and wouldn't start. On Cameron's thought, i disconnected all the tachometer wires in case it had a short in it. (he also adjusted the valves for me) We jumped the car again when it was time for me to get on the dyno. I made my runs just fine, and turned it off.

The battery was toasted(we checked the voltage in the "cavities") according to a multimeter. We jumped the car again when we left and went straight to the Shucks where i got the last battery. Glad i saved my receipt... I got a new one for $15 because the other one was supposed to be good for 72 months. I drove it down to corvallis fine no problems, but when i pulled into my apartment's parking lot, it died... WTH! lad it happened there though. I was able to start it up right there and get to my spot.(normally i wouldn't have been able to restart it immediately like that) But seriously...

Dyno sheet will be up later tonight, best run was 84 hp and 103 lb.ft Each run got better because my engine got cooler with each successive run... 80 first run, with 99.something torque, second run was 82 hp with 100.something, and then the third was that 84 with 103lb.ft. The engine was getting cooler from the dyno runs from my direct engine fan at high engine speeds. I ran it up to 6k each time. The people who were behind the car said it sounded very smooth, and seemed like i was only revving it up to 4k or something. From the front of the car i wouldn't say it sounded so nice with the exhaust leak and the huge noise from the direct engine fan.

Sheet coming soon so you can check it out. Oh, and the A/F ratio was good and flat, you shall see.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that i got this motor to smoke. It's doing what the other motor did. White smoke on decel. First noticed it when letting off the throttle at 85 mph. Then noticed it again when i let out a big ol cloud of it when i was on the dyno and they said to leave it in gear and slow down the roller. That was a big cloud... But, not as big as the stream of darker smoke one of the other guys was spewing from like 5k-7k in his b21 with VX cam... yikes, i hope they got that on tape.

Pictures and movies from the day will be posted here.
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Kyle - '68 Volvo 142 w/71 b20b and m40...