It would be nice to have a list of checks that should be done prior to a smog inspection (especially one on a dynamometor) to minimize the chances of failing one. In my case (85 non-turbo 700), I've done the following:

- Done routine-maintenance like spark-plugs, wires, distributor, oil-changes
- Cleaned Throttle-body
- Cleaned Injectors and lubricated their seals
- Cleaned Flame-Trap and associated tubing
- Cleaned IAC
- Made sure air-filter is clean
- Verified TPS works correctly
- Verified no leaks in vacuum system
- Checked that FPR works fine with no fuel-leaks in vacuum tube
- Verified O2 sensor operates in it's working voltage-range (0.1-0.9v)
- Timing set correctly at 12 deg. BTDC
- Cooling system works fine and engine dosn't run hot
- Verified no leaks in exhaust
- Idle set to 700 with CIS test-point grounded
- Tuned the Air-Mass Meter (AMM) so test-LED connected to CO test point blinks with a 50% duty cycle

Would have liked to verify that my cat.converter works fine, but cant do that without test equipment so...

I'm wondering whether tuning the AMM is the key check that one can do prior to inspection ? And is this done on a warm / hot engine ? I have this test LED rigged up all the time to my ECU, and have noticed that it only blinks when car is idle or in the first minute of driving on a cold engine. Also noticed that when idling with LED blinking nice and regular, pressing on the brake pedal stops the blinking. My booster is fine, with no leaks - so was wondering if this is normal.

Thanks !

Noel