Recap of prior post, car would not idle and would stall unless I steped on gas pedal and keep it above 750 rpm. Prior to this everything was fine, ie. steady idle in park, neutral, and gear at 750 rpm. Cleaned throttle body, idle air control valve, and checked for vacuum leaks. Above cleaning services made no difference and there were no vacuum leaks.

Ordered and received new idle air control valve, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel injector resistor Friday evening. Could not sleep so started removing and replacing the above parts. Also pulled throttle body and adjusted throttle posisition sensor just for safe measures.

The idle in park, neutral, and gear went up to 800 rpm and down to 400 rpm continuously. Noticed that gas light went on during testing, so I drove the car to Chevron and filled it up with gas. Started her up, and she held a steady idle of 1100 rpm in in park and neutral. When I put her in gear, she held a steady idle of 750 rpm. Drove the car for hour at and she never stalled once. She was also rock steady at 750 rpm while in gear but reverted to 1100 rpm if I put her in park or neutral. (Car is an auto.)

I really don't believe I solved my original problem. I am going to drive the car as much as possible this weekend and the coming week and see if things change and/or revert back to my original problem or new problem (reving up and down) when the gas tanks start to fall.

I really like to have you all opinions on this matter. I am ordering the throttle position and cold start valve as preventive/proactive maintenance items, although I belief the throttle position sensor maybe a suspect in my situation. Should I throw in in-tank and main fuel pump and fuel check valve on my preventive/proactive mainteance order list. I thank you in advance for help on this matter.
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05 Honda Odyssey EX , 91 Volvo 745T, 91 Nissan 300ZXTT