I've read through Phil's write up on Vclassics, and I'll go back and read it again, but, I'm still no where near confident of my abilities... So, if you want to get to my question, read down to the next bold spot

This past weekend, I remembered that while fixing the needle that was falling out, and wondering why my car has a rough idle as if it's about to stall, I remembered that my rear carb was low on fluid... So I went out and picked up a quart of Chevron Dextron ATF and put some in there. The rear carb's piston seems a little harder to push up now, it seems stiffer. Before I added any, it was really loose, free like, and would drop pretty fast. I'm not sure if the front piston is the same way, or MAYBE it's just the fact that the fluid was cold in that carb because I had just put it in there and the front one was warmed up from the engine being run. So forget I said anything.

Anywho, yeah, I've played with the carbs quite a bit, and they seem to be pretty even, but something is definitely wrong now. It's almost as if the choke won't turn off all the way.

I think I'll mention that the weekend before last, I did the Chinese Water Treatment followed by the same treatment using Seafoam. Let me tell ya, cleaned up my car real well I guess, because I have no pinging... I played with the advance a little bit on this past sunday, and couldn't get it to ping even at 20 deg advanced, (premium gas). But, at the same time, I had played with the mixture on the carbs... And when I took it out for a drive at that setting, it seemed SLOW... I retarded the timing back down a little bit to 14 degrees, and that didn't seem to make it run any better, nor worse. Then I went to the back and smelled the exhaust, it didn't smell rich at all, nothing like it normally does, so I assumed it was running lean and turned the mixture screws in a little bit. Then it might have run a little better...? Anywho, the exhaust used to smell a lot richer, and I know that the carbs are all outta wack now.

Here's the thing,
blah blah blah, I'm in the process of reading Phil's write-up on vclassics, which I've read before, but we'll see how I understand it this time.

-So clockwise raises the needle and richens the carbs...
-Crank each jet upwards until the top is flush with the bridge of the carb body,
What is the "top"? Top of what? I'll have to take a look at it I guess, I should know what we're talking about when I take a closer look at the hole when I'm adjusting it right? I saw Shayne do it once, but I don't remember and wasn't looking that closely at the carbs...

Ok, finished reading it, I seem to understand the process a bit more than I thought I did... I'll be playing around with it on Friday afternoon after my class...

And about the 145, there is a guy coming to look at it on Sunday at 11AM. The seller wants me to see it before the other guy does, and so do I... But that would mean getting up around 6am on sunday morning and going up to seattle. I probably won't be able to make the trip with anyone either, so the car wouldn't be able to come back down with me after I check it out. And because there is competition here, I don't know how easy it'll be to get it cheaper than $500. We'll see what happens. Hopefully something will work out...

Any more tips about playing with the carbs? Differences between tuning the HS6s and the HIF6s? Shayne believes he can't do HIF6s, any reason why he feels that way? Any other quickie tuning techniques? Thanks guys! Alwaya appreciated!

-Kyle - who will hopefully have ANOTHER 140 by the end of this week! w0000!!!!!!! How awesome would that be?!?!
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Kyle - VP of OVT Membership - www.OVTuners.org Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - current setup: 71b20b SUs, m40, bigger list available upon request... ;)