I finally got the chance to troubleshoot my 85' 240, which was sitting for a couple of weeks since winter, in regards to a battery drain problem.

The symptom that I started to experience when the problem occured for the first time was that my power door locks did not work properly when using the internal switch knob on the driver's door and sometimes the driver key door lock will not engage the power locks. This seemed like an intermittent problem.

Today I placed a freshly recharged battery and I measured a current drain of 15mA(0.015Amps) which every a couple of seconds was jumping to 25mA(0.025Amps).

I assume this is perfectly normal since the clock will get power momentarily thus having the Current drain to just at 25mA. However, after I started fiddling with the power locks using the driver's side door switch I got it to the point where turning the key didn't have any affect on the door lock motors.

Then I measured the current drain on the battery and .....BINGO I got 8Amps of drain. I fiddled the power locks a little bit more and I got it back to 0.025Amps. Since I had the suspicion a while back I bought a used full set of door lock motors including the driver's door switch.

It is obvious to me that the driver's door switch is defective and I am planning to replace it tonight. It seems like a straight forward job to me, I already have the tool for removing the driver's side panel but how do I remove the driver's door internal lock latch?

There is also a magnetic pickup solenoid that clips around the driver's door lock cylinder and engages the relays according to where the key is turned. Is there a specific position I need to set it up or any possition will be fine?

Any other recommendations before I go ahead and remove the door panel?

Thanks for all the help and support for all these years.

Mike