There's no short way to describe this problem. Sorry.

I've been having an engine overheating problem for a while. Thought it was a timing or distributor problem causing it to run lean. Volvos don't like to run lean. Here's what I've checked and done:
1) New distributor cap & rotor, reconstructed hall sensor connector, adjusted timing with very expensive timing light to 12 degrees like the book said.
2) Bosch platinum plugs with new plug wires and correct gap.
3) New thermostat.
4) All hoses and vacuum lines in good shape.

I also replaced the starter in December because the throw gear mechanism broke. I know that was the problem; I've had the same starter problem on other vehicles in the past. However, the rebuilt starter from AutoZone was half the power of the original. Keep this in mind.

Here's what happens. I crank the car cold, usually with no problems. I drive it and the coolant temp guage rises to the normal vertical (190 degrees F). If I drive it more than 15 minutes in city traffic, whenever I gently press the accelerator pedal the temp guage starts spiking almost to the red zone. If I floor the pedal, it returns to optimal temp.

Bad thermostat! Right? Wrong!!! Been there, done that.

But wait, there's more. When the engine gets hot like that, and if I park the car briefly, like to buy smokes or beer at a convenience store, when I try to crank it the the solenoid clicks and the throw gear extends but it cannot turn the flywheel. Usually, if I wait 30 minutes or an hour, I can crank the car with no problems. Back in Winter that was the case. Now it's Summer here in lower Alabama and the air temp is exceeding 90 degrees in the afternoon.

But wait, there's still more. When the hot engine has this problem, I can usually put the transmission in drive or reverse, push the car (and presumably rotate the flywheel and shaft) a few feet, and then successfully start the engine. But lately, with the Summer heat setting in, that doesn't work as well as it did back in March.

It's an automatic transmission. Further vehicle specs: 1986, 740 GLE, B230 engine, non-turbo, 174,000 miles. One last bit of information - the idle air control valve has not functioned properly for several years. It became stuck wide open and caused the car to idle at 2500 rpm. I plugged the hose feeding it with piece of wooden dowel about 3 years ago. My recent problems with overheating began 7 months ago. I don't think that ridiculously expensive piece of junk is the cause of my problems.

I anxiously await your advice. I'm all out of ideas. But if it involves more than $200 in parts or service, I'm gonna push this car into the Gulf of Mexico and start my own fishing reef.


Alabama Tim