Hello All,

After a reply from Trev29, I decided to order a Volvo Timing Belt and R&R it.

I went out to buy a long handled 1/2" drive breaker bar and a six-sided 22mm Socket.

I set everything up to TDC, index marks and Rotor pointing to #1, and verified the #1 Exhaust and Inlet Lobes were pointing at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock or whatever.

I removed the two screws for the Fan and Cooling Shroud. I removed the Fan and Pulley and drive belts for the Water Pump/Alternator, without loosening the Alternator. (10mm Open End Wrench with Closed End other side)

I removed the Timing Belt Cover. (10mm and 13mm sockets)

I loosened the Tensioner (19mm Socket, 37lb-ft Torque to Tighten). I pulled the Belt to the left (as you face te engine) and put a thin punch into the hole.

I removed the Tensioner.

I removed Sparkplug #1.

With the Camshaft pointing to its Index, the Crankshaft pointed to its Index, and with an Inspection Mirror, I verified the Intermediate Shaft was pointed to its Index, which is behind the Black Sheet Metal Plate.

To make it easier, I picked a prominent point between the Intermediate Shaft and the Engine Block Accessory Case and made a slight mark with a punch. Opposite that, on the Tooth or Channel (which ever aligns for you), I made a slight score to re-align it, when sighted, from the same position, from above.

I rotated the Crankshaft 1/4 turn to the right (clockwise).

I filled the #1 Cylinder with 3/8" Cotton Rope, approximately 13 feet.

I rotated the Crankshaft counter-clockwise, not quite 1/4 turn, back toward TDC.

I put the Breaker Bar with 22mm six-sided Socket on the Crankshaft Pulley Bolt.

I wrapped the end of it, with a rubber mallet.

I removed the Timing Belt.

I cut the old Timing Belt, so it cannot be re-used for anything but a tool.

If you need to remove the Camshaft Sprocket, the old Timing Belt wrapped tightly around and secured to a bit of the engine will allow you to remove the 19mm Bolt, with a Rubber Mallet. (37 lbft. Torque to tighten it)

I cleaned and brightened the three spockets. I installed the new Timing Belt.

One Single Line will line up with the Camshaft Index, with the other lining up with the Intermediate Shaft Index, and if you wrap the Belt around the Crankshaft Gear, its Index will fall between the double white lines.

CAUTION: The Crankshaft Gear Woodruff Key, has a beveled edge on one side of the Gear and a Flat edge on the other side. The Beveled Edge goes against the engine/Crankshaft. The Straight edge goes agains the Harmonic Balance. If you install it backwards in your haste to finish the job, before Sunset, and torque it down, the Gear will fracture and will be hard to remove. Ask me how I know.

Also: The Guides that go on the Crankshaft Gear have rounded edges. The rounded edged face each other, on the Crankshaft Gear.

When re-installing the Crankshaft's Harmonic balancer, with the Bolt hand tight, rotate the Crankshaft to the right and remove the Rope. Rotate it back to TDC, for reference or for the heck of it. Now, rotate it 1/4 turn left. Fill #1 Cylinder with Rope. Rotate the Crankshaft right. Haynes Manual says 107 to 128 lb-ft. torque. I torqued mine at 110 lb-ft. 1/4 left and remove the Rope.

When wrapping the Timing Belt around, be 100% sure the Camshaft and Intermediate Shaft, Rotor (arm) and Crankshaft are all pointing to their respective Index Marks. Install the Tensioner. Release the Spring. Tighten. Rotate the Crankshaft through TDC (firing position) 2 to 4 times, returning to TDC, Valves Closed, #1 Cylinder Firing, and check that the Camshaft and Intermediate Shaft, Rotor (arm) and Crankshaft are all pointing to their respective Index Marks. If so, then you will be able to start and if you did not loosen the Distributor, then your Timing should still be set.

The rest, goes back together opposite to they way you removed it.

The Timing Belt should be changed every 100,000 miles.

Hope this helps.