Thanks for yer tips and the write up on my post about doing an oil change. I'm gonna copy and paste it here because I think people (especially newbie DIYers) may find it helpful. I hope you don't mind.

--------------
Here's my method - yours to use, modify or ignore.

With engine cold, check clearance between oil filter and motor mount. If filter is resting on mount, you MUST install new mount before changing filter.

Drive the car 30 minutes or more to get oil fully heated up.

Put car on ramps. Remove oil filler cap. Place on top of hole in hood latch.

Under car spread plenty old newspapers, place oil catch pan. Go under car (I have a roll-around) with proper wrench and 3-4 paper towels. Remove plug, last few turns by hand with towels. Place plug quickly off to one side, wipe hand clean, Remove hot oil ASAP. Oh, I also wear latex gloves, great help.

Let oil drain while you do other things for a while. Hot oil will more fully drain. While waiting I get out the new oil bottles, anti-seize, tools, towels, etc. All placed on radiator support panel.

Place newspaper or fender protector on right fender. Remove heat shield. 12mm socket. Put bolts on right end of radiator where easily reached when installing later in job. Place 2 paper towels on top of motor mount.

I use a strap wrench to get filter loose. Put a folded paper towel around filter, and remove it by hand. Put it where it stands up and you won't kick it over. DAMHIK*

Wipe old oil from filter seal area. With a knife tip or somesuch, mark the new filter. Near the top. I, II, III, IV, at 1/4 turns around. Put a few drops of new oil on the rubber seal, smear to cover entire seal. Install, hand turn to get 3/4 turn after seal contacts block.

Go under and check draining - should be done. Install plug, use a new crush copper washer every 2nd time. AutoZone does not have them. I get mine from an indie Volvo parts house, VPI, in Houston. Tighten plug with care, do not overtighten. Stripping those threads is a monster repair job.

Start filling with new oil. While each quart drains in, start replacing heat shield. Use anti-sieze on bolts. Have care that anti-sieze stays on clothing forever, and is not easy to wash from hands either. Get all 4 bolts started and put the anti-sieze can and wipers away. then tighten bolts.

As each additional quart drains in, continue putting things away. After 4th quart, look under car for leaks.

At this point I pull the 25-amp fuse and run the starter so as to get oil pumped through the filter and into the bearings before the bearings are fully loaded by engine power strokes. Start car, check for leaks again. If all OK, back off the ramps.


Dump filter oil into drain oil catch pan. I put the drain oil into a 1-gallon plastic jug and take it to AutoZone for disposal. Oil bottles, rolled up newspapers and old filter fit into a grocery plastic bag and go out to the trash pick-up.

Yes, It's a long post. But I hope that it's of some benefit to you and to any others who read it.

Regards,

Bob

:>)


* Don't ask me how I know.
---------------

I didn't have to remove the heat shield. I'm not really that big, so I was able to actually crawl under the car through the space between the mud flap and the wheel. I turned the wheel at an angle to the left so that there is more space between the mud flap and the wheel. I could have removed the mud flap, but I was too lazy :P It would have made crawling under and out of the area a bit easier though. About putting the used oil filter away so you don't accidently kick it...well, I put it aside, but not somewhere it wouldn't get accidently bumped into--yep, my foot accidently bumped into it and it spilled oil on the floor! Grrrrrrr! I really should use latex gloves next time. I didn't have any at the time. I found out that dishwashing soap works much better than ordinary bath soap for washing oil and grime away.