Sorry, I don't know the correct order, but I generally go closest to farthest. (LF, RF, then either rear). Those pressure regulator/damper/whatever things on the rear brakes seem to hold onto air and respond only to a nice surge of pressure - have your assistant stand on the pretty firmly before you open the bleed valve to help swoosh bubbles out of them..

As for the warning light switch - no bleeding necessary. But it is designed to stay on when it is set off until you remove the electrical switch part, allowing the piston to recenter. There isn't (or shouldn't be) any brake fluid in the center there. Of course, this part isn't new anymore and the piston might be sticky.