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The reason for this post is to provide information about the differences and potential advantages (I did say potential) of the LH 3.1 vs. LH 2.4 24x Bricks. Below is a brief list of the technical differences I'm aware of from working with both:
1: Throttle position sensing:
LH 2.4: The throttle position switch is literally two switches in one, one for the idle position, and the other for Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Beyond those two states, the ECU does not know where the throttle is positioned....
Using the instructions found
here - I made a rear trailing arm bushing tool today.
First, I have to say "thank you" to the board members who took the time to take measurements, snap photos, and do the R&D on this tool. I'm sure it's saved many of us a lot of time, money and frustration.
I tried my new tool out on the rearend I dropped from the parts car. The inner sleeves were so far off center that...
It is likely that the aftermarket wheels came with special lug nuts of their own, and some of them were lost or damaged at some point, and replaced with stock Volvo parts. If the lugs are exposed, the ones for the alloys are probably chrome acorn type or similar, for improved appearance, so the difference MAY only be cosmetic. However, it is possible that the angle of the bevel where the nut meets the wheel is different than stock for your wheels, (as far as I know, all Volvo original wheels ca...
Nothing I've read here or in your earlier, related thread convinces me the problem is any more complicated than a failed #1 universal joint.
U-joints should have no appreciable play. When they do they can be louder than you'd expect in a manner that you wouldn't expect. And they're dangerous. It does seem that the forwardmost u-joint fails more frequently than the other two.
The rear end you describe seems normal. A little free rotation at the pinion input as you load up the internals...
The first thing to cover is a "knock sensor" -- this detects "engine knock", which can damage the engine, and to prevent this, if it is occurring, the sensor is connected to circuitry to electronically retard spark timing (and can be successful as long as the fuel is at least 87 A.K.I. -- see below). Advanced timing improves power and fuel economy, but makes engine knock more likely under certain conditions (hot weather and heavy load, such as accelerating); retarded timing prevents knock, but...
A couple of weeks ago our 1985 245 "Daisy" failed the evaporative emission system test on the California Smog Check. The test, at least as it applies to this model and year vehicle was performed as follows:
1. The evaporative line from the gas tank to the evaporative (charcoal) canister in the left front wheel well is pinched off just before it enters the canister.
2. Nitrogen was introduced to the fuel/evaporative system via a fitting that replaced the gas tank cap. The system was pressuriz...
Dave,
You're giving me an idea... What about a parts cross-reference database for our 4/544s? Would contain original part number, optional picture, alternate part numbers, sources, etc. I would be happy to host it on my restoration site. Parts such as the VDO tank sender, lights, switches, fuses, shocks, tires, etc. would be prime candidates. I'm sure that if all the 4/544 Brickboarders put their data together, we could generate a good-sized list.
Thoughts?
--
Tony Scarola
1958 Volvo PV44...
Hello,
Passing along an oil leak fix (finally)on the breather box.
Started a degrease campaign on the engine compartment a few months back and been tracking down and fixing small oil leaks. The area under the hood was a real oily mess after 22 years, a legendary clogged flame trap leak, and a poor job putting a valve cover on. One thing about changing over too and and running full synthetic motor oil is when it does leak makes cleaning that area a snap. Had what I thought was a rear seal l...
With the exception of the P1800, I have owned at least one example of each of the RWD models. I find your evaluation of them to be well thought out, though biased in favor of the earlier cars. Here are my comments, based on actual experience:
122--You are mostly right on with this one. However, the rubber floor mats are a big minus as they trap moisture and make the floor rot out. With the exception of the 68 (and later, not imported to the US) models, these cars lack important safety features...
Don't panic. There isn't anything wrong with the 'crosshatch' type finish you show in the picture. A milling operation with no 'toe' on the mill leaves a pattern like you see. Use them - it will break in fine and you won't see any difference at your next pad change as all the pattern will be gone.
The only one that you need to avoid like the plague is Dexcool. That's the nasty stuff that eats radiator solder, gaskets etc. Just about any of the others are fine
I run Evans Waterless Coolant ( www.evanscooling.com )in all of my vehicles. Cheap insurance against overheats. Pretty much impossible to boil over on that stuff. It's saved two of my engines to date.
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-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350...
©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2007. All material except where indicated.
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